The wines of November & December 2020

The end of November and early December was a hard time for me, for physical reasons. As a result, I decided to just double up the months. Here are some wines I enjoyed through the end of 2020. Hope every one is looking forward to a great 2021.

2016 Amicone Rosso Veneto, Ora Italy

Amicone is made from predominantly Corvina grapes (same grapes that go into Amarone) but are dried for a shorter period and on the vine not on mats like Amarone. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then aged in French oak tonneaux for 8 months. The result is an easy drinking full-bodied red that has lots of rich soft, smooth texture.

The healthiest and most developed grapes are chosen during harvest to undergo a further drying process in controlled temperatures which guarantees the superb quality of this wine. These laborious steps produce a full-bodied yet soft wine with aromas of fresh raspberry and black cherry.

Slow maturation in oak barrels gives notes of sweet spices and chocolate. An ideal accompaniment to grilled or barbecued meats with friends or simply on its own during the winter evenings around the chimney, this wine evokes unexpected emotions.

This was a decent little Italian wine – nose was slight, but the flavors were expressive of red fruits and berries. Pretty good for an under $15 bottle. Worth getting as a school-night wine.

2019 Chateau Fontaubert Bordeaux France

Category              Red Wine

Varietals              Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc

Region  France, Bordeaux

Not a lot written about this cheap Bordeaux bottle, cost is in the $10 range. Modest nose, decent fruit, some black and red berry notes. Not an age-worthy bottle, OK for every day drinking.

2018 Fog Mountain Red Blend, California

The Field Blend brings together seven distinct varietals, delivering exquisite aromas of raspberry and bing cherry. Soft and supple on the mouth, strawberry notes intermingle with hints of cedar and culminate in a subtle tobacco finish.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Sirah, Syrah, Zinfandel

Sourced from a patchwork of sustainably farmed, California old vine vineyards and pioneering mountainsides, Fog Mountain strikes perfect harmony with seven distinct varieties. Pre-dating the famous Meritage of Napa Valley, the field blend relies on the old grape varieties which gave birth to the California wine industry. Fog Mountain seeks to be a steward to the land, to pass it on, with its traditions intact, to the next generation.

A combination of subtle strawberry, brambly blackberry, boysenberry, and bing cherry. Cedar and tobacco are found on the soft and supple finish.

A decent every night wine, decent body and fruit. Not much aftertaste, but goes with week night meals. Priced under $10.

2007 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, OR

Cellar Selection

A very elegant and refined Evenstad Reserve, with grace notes of sandalwood and a lovely cherry core. The fruit is immaculate, the concentration focused and lengthy, and the flavors are so artfully blended that the wine is seamless and perfectly balanced. Although it is drinking like a mature wine, there is every reason to cellar wines such as this—it can develop like a fine Burgundy, over decades.

VINTAGE NOTES

At Domaine Serene, we've always maintained that great wines begin with great vineyards. This was particularly true of the 2007 vintage, where a myriad of weather conditions and temperature changes made for a very challenging harvest. Yes, it rained, but as fastidious as Pinot Noir may be, a little rain is not a bad thing, especially in dry-farmed vineyards. Most importantly is to have strong, proactive vineyard practices and a sound, diligent winemaking team that maintains a level head and does not panic and pick early. 2007 was a cool, wet vintage and will answer all requests for lower alcohols. The wines are beautifully integrated and drinking much softer at an earlier age – that is to say these are balanced and nuanced wines that are enjoyable now but will reward proper cellaring.

An excellent Oregon Pinot, with a good nose of red fruits. The mouthfeel was very balanced, with ripe berry and cherry notes with herbaceous notes. Long finish, moderate tannins but good acid balance. Not sure of the price, but you can’t go wrong with a bottle of this. (Price estimate around $60).

2018 Annick Bachelet Morgon, Beaujolais, France

This smells pretty great, hinting at the layers of flavor that develop with each taste. There’s a mineral essence underneath notes of green and black olives, all of it highlighted by bright red cherry and boysenberry fruit. Succulent and grand, it’s a ripe Morgon that lives up to the charm of its name. The fruit of 50-year-old vines at a south-facing vineyard, this is a wine to cellar to get the full benefits of its beauty.  — 92 Points Wine & Spirits, Apr 2020

Forget that Nouveau stuff, this is a legit wine from the same region. Modest nose, but red berry and fruit on the mouth – limited tannins but good acid balance.  An excellent food wine available around $20.

 2018 Giant Steps Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Australia

#42 Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2019

All the 2018 Giant Steps Pinots have lovely perfume, color and very generous mouthfeels. This wine expresses an intricate blend of delicious parcels from Giant Steps’ Tarraford, Applejack, Lusatia Park, Primavera and Sexton vineyards. Powerful, lifted aromas of cherries, blue and red fruits are complemented by underlying savory, gamey characters.

WS94Wine Spectator

Elegant and distinctive, offering fresh raspberry, sage and white pepper notes that are precise, supple and juicy, with a thread of fresh loam and forest floor, supported by polished tannins. A touch of matcha green tea lingers on the finish. Drink now through 2033.

This wine offered a nose of red fruits and followed with smooth flavors of cherry and raspberry. Well structured Pinot, with notes of earth and tea. Tannins are well integrated and the acid balance is very good. Very good Pinot from Down Under – priced from $30-35.

2014 Terre Rouge Syrah, Côtes de l'Ouest  Amador County, CA

Our popular Syrah for every day pleasure is also a big hit in wine bars and restaurants across the US, Canada and England.  This syrah, from the "western slopes of the Sierra" is a wine that everyone can afford to drink and enjoy. We blend about 60% of grapes from our lowest elevations with 40% from our highest vineyards to create a lovely, balanced syrah.

This 2014 vintage has beautiful color with rich, silky, wild raspberry fruit flavors laced with pepper, sage, tar, and olive/herb tones. Aromas are raspberry, smoky, wild gamey, peppery, and cinnamon. The wine has a clean purity of Syrah fruit that is reminiscent of many St. Joseph’s and other Northern Rhone's. It has forward fruit flavors and great acid balance. It is very smooth and savory in the mouth.

In Northern Rhône style, the Syrah was co-ferment the Syrah with a bit of Viognier in each fermentor to finesse the wine. The grapes were lightly crushed and fermented in our larger tanks and irrigated to minimize tannin extraction and aged 17 months in 20% new and 80% used French oak barrels. The finished wine is 96% Syrah and 4% Viognier.

This is not an Aussie style Syrah – this is very much a Rhone style wine.  The wine tastes large in the mouth, red fruits with tannins and hints of spiciness. Not overpowering however, delicate enough to compliment many meals. A real winner – available from $20-25.

2018 Decoy Limited Red Blend, Napa Valley, CA

Wine Review: This red blend from Decoy opens with a black cherry and black currant bouquet. On the palate, this wine is medium bodied and balanced. The flavor profile was initially quite tight, but it opened up with some aeration. The flavor profile is a mild mineral influenced red plum with notes of gentle oak and hints of black currant and black licorice. The finish is dry and its flavors and fine tannins fade away nicely. While this wine is not overly complex, it is quite friendly and versatile once it develops. I would pair it with your favorite juicy burger off the grill.

Grape blend: 43% Merlot, 25% Zinfandel, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon & 8% Tempranillo

This is a big red blend – nose was modest but the fruits hit your mouth – blackberry and cassis, with baking spices and lingering tannins. Long finish, a wine deserving cellar time and a chunk of red meat to go with it. Priced from $25 – 32.

2009 Hafner Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, CA

This red wine was produced by fermenting the juice with the skins to extract their color and flavor. CO2  gas (a by-product of fermentation) bubbled up through the skins causing them to float to the top and form the "cap". To ensure thorough color and flavor extraction, we pumped juice from the bottom of the tank and sprinkled it over the cap throughout the fermentation.

Following the Bordeaux tradition of extended maceration, the wine stayed on the skins for another two weeks to soften the young tannins. We then moved the Cabernet into our caves where it was aged in French (80%) and American (20%) oak barrels. During its first Winter, the wine underwent malolactic fermentation which lowered its acidity and added richness. In its second year, this Cabernet was aged in both oak barrels and oak tanks. After many blending trials, we added 2% Petit Verdot and 4% Malbec to this Cabernet to increase the wine's depth and richness. We bottled it in August 2011.

At our Annual Vertical Tasting in May 2020, we tasted the 2009 and here are our notes: Cassis, briars, bersaola, cinnamon, fresh mint, Niçoise olives, dark chocolate, vanilla bean, earthy, burnt toast. Round, chewy, rich. Long finish.

This wine is inky in the glass. Flavors of cassis, black raspberry linger with earth tones and herb overtones. Tannins are integrated and the wine is nicely balanced. Still retains a medium length finish. Very nice bottle from a small Sonoma family producer. (Price estimate $40)

2017 Domaine Thevenot-le Brun Bourgogne, Haut Cotes de Nuits, FR

The nose is complex with a mix of fruity, spicy and floral notes. In mouth the first feeling is on the roundness and then the tanins appear to end on a very nice length.

Red: its middle-of-the-road temperament, neither too stiff with tannins nor too fleshy, means that it goes well with such meats as rabbit, lamb or duck. It can stand salted or mildly spiced dishes (duck à l’orange, tajines…). An adaptable wine which, thanks to its attractive balance, commends itself to a wide range of dishes. Cheeses: mature Soumaintrain, Nuits d’Or, Reblochon fermier, Morbier. Serving temperature: 14 to 16°C.

A very French Pinot Noir – moderate color but nice balance on red fruit flavors. Could be overpowered, but good with a holiday meal that isn’t big red meat.  Priced around $20-25.

2013 Terre Rouge Garrigue, Sierra Foothills, CA

Reserved fruit and spice flavors, and a soothing, gripping texture will make this medium-bodied blend of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon a great dinner guest. Plenty of tannins give a fine sandpaper feel on the tongue, and the wine will counterbalance the richness of meat, fowl and game dishes.

Domaine de la Terre Rouge specializes in wines made from Rhône Valley varietals. For this wine we were inspired the wines that originate a bit further South along the coastal Mediterranean were vineyards grown along side the garrigue or the local chaparral in places like Baux de Provence with the unique producer Domaine Trévallon. Our vines grow in a similar environment, surrounded by manzanita, pine, toyon, yerba santa, and chamise. This is a blend of twothird’s Syrah and one-third Cabernet Sauvignon that is complex and savory, while still being accessible now. It is modestly-priced and eminently quaffable.

Another wine from Amador County from Bill Easton. Bill doesn’t like to release his wines too early – he wants them drinkable on release. This blend is a great mix of Syrah and Cabernet – unusual but done very well. Not an overpowering wine, but on that will meld into a meal seamlessly – the red fruits come together and the wine goes down like silk. A really good wine that retails for about $20, way to good to pass up at that price.

Another couple months have flown by. Stay safe and keep popping those corks - I'll meet you out behind the grapevines.

 The Wines of October 2020

Another fine Fall month - we had hot temperatures as well as snow. Just what you would expect for this year. Now some wines...

2016 Eguren Ugarte Cosecha, Rioja, Spain

What a value in a modern take on Spain's most classic red. A blend of 80% Tempranillo and 20% Garnacha, this is loaded with deep, rich, black and red fruit with an attractive layer of toasty, spicy, oak. Will get better for a decade, but delicious now - a fabulous match for lamb!

James Suckling: 93 Points

"Ripe, brambly and juicy with very fresh, ripe berries. Composed palate with a tight core of fine, muscular tannins carrying plenty of flavor. Great composure. Drink or hold."

A nice Rioja wine for not a lot of money. There are great values among Spanish wines and this is an example. Could hang on a few more years but tasting drinking very well now. Nice mellow red fruits with hints of spice; little tannins but good structure for food. Around $10, a great every night bottle.

2016 Matayac Malbec, Cahors, France

"True to classic Malbec, this wine is a deep inky red in the glass with aromas of red licorice, and stewed plums. Smashed blackberry and ripe raspberry flavors leap across the palate, bolstered by a moderate acidity that is balanced by an earthy gravitas." 93 Points, Ultimate Wine Challenge

For some reason, this bottle just didn’t do much for me. A touch too earthy, I didn’t find any flavors “leaping” out of the glass. Wine seemed structurally sound, not corked, but just not all that tasty – didn’t seem any better with food. Avaialble around $11, but go for something else.

2015 Clos des Demoiselles, Listrac-Medoc, France

62 %Merlot, 38 % Cabernet Sauvignon                          

Clos des Demoiselles matures its 4 hectares of old Merlot and Cabernet

Sauvignon vines on the south slope of the Puy de Menjon, highest point of the Medoc.

 Pyrenean gravel on a limestone subsoil containing fossils.  A strict selection of the parcels and the grapes takes place during the harvest.  After a gentle crushing and destemming of the grapes, the must is put into small-thermoregulated vats ensuring that the fermentations are perfectly controlled, bringing out the expression, the richness and the nuances of each plot. The vatting period lasts 20 to 25 days depending on the vintage.

Maturing lasts around 14 months in merrian oak barrels, a 1/3 of which are replaced each year.

Clos des Demoiselles shows a deep garnet color. The nose is very elegant

with black currant and blueberry notes. This well balanced wine develops charm and richness early in the bottle, allowing it to be enjoyed young. Serve with a roasted duck breast or pork shops. Will also be perfect with cheese or with chocolate cake.

This was a good bottle at a great price. The nose was a little subdued, but the flavors of red fruits and oak hints are very good. Enough structure to age a few more years, but drinking excellent now. Priced under $20, a good bottle for ever night or special weekend meals.

2019 Domaine Bosquet Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina

CRITICAL ACCLAIM

JS92  JamesSuckling.com

"Very fresh, plummy fruit with black cherries. There is also a faint mineral, tarry character to the wine, making it more seductive. Medium-bodied with fresh acidity and firm tannin. A linear mouth feel. No obesity here. From organically grown grapes. Drink now or hold. Screw cap." (92 pts.)

Rich, intense aromas of blackberry with notes of black pepper, blackcurrant and cassis. The palate reveals an elegant personality with layers of red and black fruits and silky tannins. Pairs well with roasted red meats.

A tasty little every day wine with good fruit in the nose followed with similar flavors on the palate. Enough structure to go with a variety of meats – I had it with a pork roast stuffed with dates; nice pairing. Priced around $10 most places, good go-to for weeknight meals.

2012 Easton Cabernet Sauvignon, Shenandoah Valley, Ca

Wine Enthusiast 92 POINTS         Cellar Selection

An enticing, spicy, cedary, toasty aroma leads to generous flavors of black cherry, wood smoke and dried plum. The body is full, the texture is bold, firmly tannic and buoyed by acidity that provides grip on the palate and makes it a great match for rich proteins. Best after 2019.

This wine is drinking great right now and the 2012 is the current release. The owner and winemaker (Mr Easton) ages his wine at the winery so it is ready to drink. He had a Syrah on the Wine Spectator Top 100 list, but he won’t release it until it is ready to drink. I noted this wine had a big fell, with some structured tannins, dark red fruit and good acidity to go with a wonderful short rib meal. The wine has enough tannin to last another 4 -5 years, but is so delicious I want to drink it now. Priced between $45 - $50, this is a really great buy – compare it to $100+ wines.

Another month has passed by, Daylight Savings time has elapsed and we look toward winter. Stay safe, stay healthy, keep your mask handy and keep well. Until next month, keep popping those corks and I’ll meet you out behind the grapevines.

The Wines of August 2020

I guess I messed up and didn't post August. So here it is, late but available.

2015 Garnet Pinot Noir, Monterey County, California

Aromas: Blackberry cobbler, toasted hazelnuts, Chinese five spice powder, cloves and dried juniper berries.

Flavors: Red and black fruits and berries followed by notes of coffee and vanilla. To us, this wine brings to mind strawberry jam and butter slathered on freshly toasted home-made bread. The long finish is delicious and mouth-filling.

Our Monterey Pinot Noir is blended from a few acres in each of four vineyards scattered along benchlands near the Santa Lucia Highlands that are subject to the cool, foggy influence of Monterey Bay.

This was a pleasant Pinot, California style with nice fruit in the strawberry line. Finish was fair, not as long as described, no real tannins, decent backbone to fit to a meal.  Winery price is $20, generally available for $10. Decent school-nite wine.

2017 Jepson Syrah, Mendocino County, California

Middle weight, intensely fruited with wonderful earthen texture Brambly blackberry aromatics flow seamlessly into plum and berry fruit forward flavors on an impressive balanced tannin foundation.

Staff Comments: An intense Syrah from Mendocino, California! Rich ripened blackberries on the nose with a touch of peppercorns. This is full bodied and superb. Notes of caramel latte, smoked almonds, espresso, and baked boysenberry pie. Serve this with lasagna al forno, a skirt steak salad with Bleu cheese crumbles, or BBQ’s ribs.

Jepson was bought out about the time this wine was in barrels. The surprise for me was that this was a nicely rich, heavy style (Rhone-like) Syrah, not an Aussie fruit bomb. The black fruits were prevalent, but the body and backbone supported the weight. Needed a heavy type meal, but was good with that. Generally available around $12, a good bottle to have for those ribs.

2018 Natale Verga Primitivo, Salento, Italy

"Aromas of sun-dried prunes and pine syrup and good flavors of black cherries and fudge. Try it with veal and peppers, sausage grilled with onions, penne vodka and grilled sirloin medium rare." Winemaker's Notes

The perfect everyday pizza wine! Primitivo is Zinfandel's exotic Italian cousin. Fruit-forward but a bit more suave and probably rides a motorcycle. With notes of olive and black cherry it's one of our go-to's

Rarely do I find a wine that I really think I do not want to finish the bottle. This might be an exception; the general condition of the wine was fine, but the flavor components were all wrong. I didn’t get all the flavors from the winemaker notes, but I did get a big streak of green olive through the mid-palate. Made the aftertaste unappealing, as well. Even for $8, I can’t say I’d drink this again. (Yes, I have had some good primitivos, this wasn’t one.)

2014 Jarhead Red, California

Our mission is to make distinctively robust red wines in support of the Marine Corps Scholarship Foundation, which provides educational assistance to children of U.S. Marines, with special consideration given to families of fallen and wounded Marines.

“The 2014 Jarhead Red offers generous aromas of plum, cherry and spice with a hint of smokiness. A rich, mouth filling texture unfolds with flavors of black cherry, blackberry and cassis. Notes of vanilla emerge on a broad, juicy finish. This boldly flavored wine is a perfect match for classic American fare, such as grilled steak, barbecued chicken and hamburgers.”

It helps to know that Marines call each other “Jarheads” (How did you get that round hat on such a square head?). My brother was a Marine, served in Vietnam, so I know a little about the Corps. This wine is made from the Firestone vineyard as well as other grapes from parts of California. A red blend, mostly merlot with a few other complimentary grapes. Not a bad wine, no tannic backbone to make it cellar worthy, but a pleasant, red fruit driven bottle for pasta and pizza. Priced from $9 to $13, pick up a bottle and feel patriotic.

2016 Wakefield Jaraman Shiraz, South Australia

Wakefield Jaraman is a zesty, full-bodied, Shiraz from Clare Valley wine region in South Australia. This Australian red wine is a regional blend of Shiraz grapes of about two-thirds Clare Valley and one-third McLaren Vale regions. The wine was partially cold-soaked for 4 days, then aged in 100% new American oak barrels for 11 months. Dark chocolate and sweet black fleshy plums on the nose with a pleasant zing of acidity mid-palate for lots of dishes from tangy meat sauces to grilled meats. More black fruit and mouth-filling roundness. A consistently good producer at fair prices for the quality. This Australian red wine is a regional blend of Shiraz grapes of about two-thirds Clare Valley and one-third McLaren Vale regions. The wine was partially cold-soaked for 4 days, then aged in 100% new American oak barrels for 11 months. Deeply concentrated and flavoured.

This is a typical fruit forward style of Aussie Shiraz; Nose comes off like black fruits and the flavor follows with more black fruits and some herbs added in. Good acidic backbone to go with heavy meat style dishes. Nice to have if you haven’t had a big Aussie in a while. Goes with BBQ and grilled meats. Priced around $20, available for about $15, nice bottle for that outdoor meal.

 

A touch short this month, will have more in September. Stay safe, wear a mask and social distance. Until next time, keep popping those corks and I’ll meet you out behind the grapevines.

 The Wines of September, 2020

Let's talk about Zinfandel. It has been traced to a grape named Crljenak Kaštelanski, in the European area of Slovakia. It is also the same as the Italian Primitivo. 

Mostly, the great zinfandels come from the US of A, mostly in California. Long used in jug wines, it has finally made a name as a stand-alone wine. Zinfandel is grown across the continental United States, although California grows the largest proportion. U.S. producers make wine in styles that range from late harvest dessert wines, rosés (White Zinfandel) and Beaujolais-style light reds to big hearty reds and fortified wine in the style of port. 

The grape grows in clusters of large purple berries, causing some problem when harvesting. The green fruit can cause bitterness, so it is called hens and chicks - where harvesters leave the green chicks and try to get the ripe grapes. Much of the heartiness of the wine depends on the soil and climate where they are grown. In California, Zinfandel now falls behind Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay in the number of acres planted - still ahead of Merlot. 

Now for the wines of September:

2017 Buena Vista The Count Red, Sonoma County, Ca

88 pts Wine Enthusiast

This blend is driven by 45% Zinfandel, with 26% Merlot and 10% Syrah in addition to smaller additions of other red grapes. Baking spice, herb and soft, rich round fruit defines it, making for a robust, hyper-ripe experience of opulence.

Wine Review: This ruby colored kitchen sink blend from Buena Vista opens with cherry and pomegranate bouquet with a hint of cranberry. On the palate, this wine is medium bodied, balanced and juicy. The flavor profile is a strawberry and rhubarb blend with notes of cranberry. I also detected hints of tart plum and cinnamon. The finish is dry and its acidity, moderate tannins and flavors show nice length. This wine would pair well with pork tenderloin. Enjoy – Ken

Winemaker Notes: The Count seduces the palate with enticing aromas of mocha, baking spices and blackberry. Dark fruit flavors coat the palate with notes of Baker's chocolate, cinnamon and vanilla. This is a well-balanced wine is structured and has good acidity. It has a savory and lingering finish.

Very nice bottle of wine, good spicy nose with a palate of dark fruits and spice. Moderate finish – always a good drinking wine that has the stuff to go with a multitude of meals. Only priced around $20, very nice for the price

2017 Handcraft Malbec, California

2017 Handcraft Malbec, California

The HandCraft Malbec is hand harvested also in cool temperatures and taken immediately to the winery to small lot fermenters.  After a brief cold soak they are gently warmed to enhance the color and flavor extraction.  Once the fermentation is complete the Malbec is aged in French and American oak to soften the tannins.  A touch of Zinfandel is added for complexity and a hint of spice.

A decent school-night wine, the flavors are mostly red fruit with a little acid to match a meal. Pretty good for a $10 bottle.

2018 Chateau de L’Aubrade Entre-duex-mers, Bordeaux Blanc,  France

Located in the Entre-Deux-Mers region of Bordeaux, this 175-acre property has been in the hands of  the Lobre family for three generations. It is today run by Jean-Christophe and Andrea Lobre, with the assistance of their children, Jean-Pierre and Paulette. Their white, a classic Bordeaux blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle and Semillon, is quite crisp with an herbal edge as well as ripe fruit and a lively aftertaste.

Part of Best-value Bordeaux white wines: Top 20 picks from Entre-Deux-Mers   Decanter  90pts

Good lemon and lime juiciness with some very subtle spiced edges around the peach and apricot flesh flavours. It's nicely rounded and balanced with a zippy lift at the end. Drinking Window 2020 – 2023

I really don’t drink enough white wine – this is an excellent French white that has fruit (citrus) and nice acidity. Great sipping and good with lighter fare. Available at around $15, worth buying several to keep on hand.

2017 Valravn Zinfandel, Sonoma County, CA

" Valravn is born from bush-pruned vines ranging in age from 50 to 105-years-old, harvested between September 14th and October 2nd. Hand harvesting each vineyard parcel allowed for selection of only the most pristine bunches which averaged 26 brix at harvest. Grapes were hand sorted and gently destemmed before fermentation. After a 24 hour cold-soak, which served to extract richness and color from these black grapes, the wine was slowly fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks with twice-daily remontage (pumping over) during fermentation. The wine was then racked into French oak barrels (20% new) and aged for 10 months before being bottled with no fining and a very light filtration.

Winemaking Notes: After a 24 hour cold-soak, which served to extract richness and color from these black grapes, the wine was slowly fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks with twice-daily remontage (pumping over) during fermentation. The wine was then racked into French oak barrels (20% new) and aged for 10 months before being bottled with no fining and a very light filtration.

Nice flavor to this zin, though I thought maybe a touch flat on the mid-palate. Enough acidity to go with food, overall a nicely balanced wine.  Priced around or just under $20.

2015 Trione Zinfandel, Flatridge ranch, Sonoma County, CA

Flatridge Zinfandel is a very special wine and vineyard.  The vineyard was planted with a selection of zinfandel sourced from a 100-year-old vineyard next to St.  Peter’s Church in the northern Sonoma County town of Cloverdale.  The church’s vineyard has been the source of plant material for many well-known producers of Zinfandel in the Rockpile Appellation of Sonoma County.  It was made in small open top fermenters in a style similar to pinot noir, hand plunging the cap three to four times daily.  The wine was also made with a special strain of yeast selected from a Rockpile selection of Syrah. 

Blackberries and blueberries are the first impressions; beautiful soft entry with a well-knit tannin structure, supple yet with firm mouthfeel and finish. This wine develops in the glass from subtle fruit aromatics to ever evolving notes of plum, allspice and black currant. It is developing with intensity and substance and should continue to do so for the next 4-7 years.

Very good fruit on the palate, with a moderate aftertaste. Enough acidity and hints of tannins, good match for beefy dishes. Little more pricey at around $30, but has held well for a 2015 vintage.

2017 Ridge ‘East Bench’ Zinfandel, Dry Creek valley, Sonoma, Ca

History                  Ridge has made the East Bench as a single vineyard wine since 2006, one of the few Ridge zinfandels that is 100% zinfandel. The vineyard sits high atop the bench land that overlooks Dry Creek Valley from the east.

Raspberry, fig with notes of vanilla on the nose. Flavors of plum and black olive give way to well coated tannins and black olive in the lingering finish.

Harvest Dates: 11 – 14 September           Grapes: Average Brix 24.7˚

Fermentation: Natural primary and natural secondary (malolactic) fermentations; once daily pump-overs; pressed at nine days.

Barrels: 100% air-dried American oak barrels (10% new, 10% one year-old, 20% three years-old, 20% four years-old, and 20% five years-old).

Aging: Twelve months in barrel

JebDunnuck.com: 93 Points “All Zinfandel from the Dry Creek Valley, the 2018 Zinfandel East Bench offers up a great, pure, medium to full-bodied style that carries lots of classic spice, brambly herbs, incense, and plum-laced fruits. Nicely balanced, structured, and with solid length, this terrific Zinfandel will be even better with a year in bottle and keep for a decade.” – Jeb Dunnuck (May 2020)

This is a big wine, moderate fruit and spice nose and a big mouthfeel – black fruits with some herbs in the palate. A classic zin from one of the best producers. Some tannins, good acidity; matched with beef very well. Decent price for Ridge at only $30.

2018 Ridge Geyserville Red, Alexander Valley, Sonoma, Ca

68% Zinfandel, 20% Carignane, 10% Petite Sirah, 2% Alicante Bouschet

Vintage                                2018

Vineyard              Geyserville

Appellation         Alexander Valley

Alcohol By Volume          14.7%

Dark ruby color. Intense black cherry fruit aroma, exotic oak spice, cola, mint, and complex gravel earth. Intense bramble fruit entry, sensuous textural tannins, lively acid, and showing great minerality in a long finish.

Connoisseurs’ Guide: 91 Points “Ridge’s iconic Geyserville bottlings are always rich and complex wines that stray a bit from the Zinfandel norm, and the latest, as usual, is a deep and substantial, near-brooding offering whose ample dark berry fruit is laced with lots of distinct earthy spice and is up to the task of fighting through no small measure of tannins. Sure to be long-lived and, in fact, emphatically asking for age, the 2018 version is years away from coming fully into its own and should be laid away in the hard-to-reach realms of the cellar for a full half-decade or more.” (July 2020)

Geyserville contains the oldest block of vines that Ridge farms—some blocks are 130-plus years old. Ridge has made a single vineyard wine from here, every year, for the last 52 years. Ridge Geyserville is the epitome of classic, ageworthy, old vine Zinfandel.

Another big wine from Ridge. Nose was modest (it is only a 2018 vintage)but the red and black fruits covered the palate with spices and some earth with some tannins. Good acidity to go with a heavy meal – classic red zinfandel field blend from Ridge. Got to be one of my favorites, along with Lytton Springs. Around $50 – but a heck of a zin that you could cellar for 5 years and still have a great wine.

Another month has gone by - hope you are all safe and well. Until next month, keep popping those corks and I'll meet you out behind the grapevines

The wines of July 2020

Another month has drawn to the end. Hope you are all staying well and safe. 

Wine teaching time - what do you know about Rose wines?

Do you know the three ways that Rose wines are made? Did a tasting of Rose wines this month and even thought I say it every year, no one remembers how they are made.

1.       Sanguinee – where juice is drawn from the vessel where the pressed grapes and skins are when there is light color on the juice. Then the Rose is finished fermenting and treated as a separate wine. This makes the red wine have more skin contact and can add tannins and flavors to it, while the vintner has a wine they can finish and sell next season with a Rose.

2.       Draw off the juice from the skins after limited contact, then finish the wine is a typical fashion. This is how wines in Provence and Tavel are made.

3.       A mixture of red and white grapes/wines are mixed and create a Rose wine.

Now for the Wines this Month:

2017 Natale Verga Barbera Passito Piemonte, Italy

"Pours a pretty violet with vibrant fuchsia highlights. Pronounced aromas of sweet plums and raspberry jam. The palate is light on its feet, featuring dark forest fruit intermingling with a delicate minerality that's fresh and clean. This is an homage to the artistry of winemaking ? the deep, elegant flavors are a truly pleasant surprise considering the light and nimble body. If you like Pinot Noir, you have got to try this Barbera! 90 Points, Wine and Spirits Guild of America

This wine is a rediscovery of the old tradition of using partially-dried grapes to add richness and concentration. The Barbera grapes were grown on southwestfacing slopes in the Monferrato hills, at 250-400m altitude. Soils here are clay and limestone. Following the traditional passito technique - a portion of ripe Barbera grapes (around 20%), left on the vine for nearly a month after the main harvest to sun dry, were blended with fresh Barbera grapes before fermentation. This sweetens, enriches and softens the resulting acidity. 100%Barbera, this is a wine that uses generations of history to create something that’s very modern and slick with notes of fresh cherries, raspberries and plum on a super fresh and silky palate.

 

This is a rich wine meant for hardy Italian fare. The biggest surprise is the touch of sweetness on the finish. Not cloying, just an unusual bit of flavor. I see it available for around $13 online, it is worth a try if you can find it.

Nicolas Feuillatte NV D'Luscious Demi-Sec Rosé (Champagne), France

87 POINTS

The onion-skin pink color sets the stage for an off-dry, just-sweet wine, that is crisp, yet soft and rounded. It has good weight, fresh raspberry flavor, and delicate sweetness, resulting in a wine that's crisp and textured.

This attractive Rosé is dry and slightly sweet with notes of red fruit. Cherry and raspberry flavors lead in to a beautifully balanced palate.

Blend: 60% Pinot Noir, 30% Meunier, 10% Chardonnay

Like most Champagne (the Real stuff), this is a very pleasing bottle of bubbly; a little sweet but not cloying, crisp with light berry flavor and hints of yeasty bread. Very nice – on sale for around $30 – excellent bottle to surprise friends or just yourself.

2017 USA Cabernet, California

 

USA Cabernet is produced in the Golden State’s heartland, Lodi, California, a working-class town that makes world-class wines. Like the rest of America’s heartland, we don’t aim for pretension or snobbery. We just work hard at being good. Our origins may be modest; our ambitions are anything but. We simply want to be America’s favorite cabernet.

Just how American is USA Cabernet? Well, it’s rumored to be made from red, white and blue grapes. It pairs nicely with big game tailgating, family barbecues or lakeside fireworks on the Fourth of July. It’s the perfect complement for Texas chili, Philly cheese steak, Yankee pot roast, Maryland crab cakes, Kansas City burnt ends, New Orleans gumbo or Alabama catfish. Soon, you’ll be seeing it everywhere. On a picnic blanket in the park. On a kitchen table during March Madness. At outdoor country music concerts and State Fairs. In both luxury suites and RVs. Wherever Americans gather, whatever they eat, USA Cabernet is there to help you celebrate with friends and family.

Scotto Cellars, a fifth generation, family-owned winery based in Lodi, CA, has introduced a patriotic new wine brand, “USA Cabernet” in celebration of the nations’ favorite red wine and its most popular regional dishes. And while the wine comes from the heart of California wine country, the concept comes from a boutique ad agency in Houston.

Just like its name – this is a humble sippable cabernet that goes with food. Not a lot of power in the cab, just limited red and black fruit, very little tannin or aftertaste. About what you expect for a $10 Lodi cabernet.

2019 King Estate Rose of Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, OR

Leading off with a gorgeous strawberry, peach color in the glass, the 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir has vibrant aromas of ripe strawberries, rose petal, wet stone and hibiscus flowers. There are immediate fresh and juicy flavors like strawberry, Key lime and ripe raspberry that are framed by subtle hints of rose water and chalk. This is light and bright up front and builds a pleasant roundness in the mid-palate that crescendos with mouthwatering acidity.

A classic Rose from the gang at King Estate in Oregon – this wine is very good for just sipping (Porch pounding) but has enough body and acidity to make it a wine to have with a meal. Very enjoyable – priced around $20.Made in style #2 in the intro…

2017 Rose de Chevalier, Bordeaux, France

A Bordeaux Rosé with Bright Red Fruit Flavors

Domaine de Chevalier, located in Leognan in the Graves region on the Left Bank of Bordeaux, was first purchased by the Bernard family in 1983. Since then, the historical estate has been run by Olivier Bernard, and has produced wines with a reputation for quality. The estate's namesake First Wine and one of the great classified growths of Bordeaux, the Domaine de Chevalier red has been a flagship of the Pessac-Leognan appellation since its very first vintage. Meanwhile, the estate's signature white has been recognized as one of the best dry white wines of France.

The frost at the end of April 2017 devastated the vineyards of Bordeaux, not sparing those of Domaine de Chevalier. Nevertheless, a favorable climate during the summer months allowed the grapes to reach ideal ripeness. The harvests were carried out quite early, between September 11th and 29th, yielding grapes with a great balance between sugar and acidity, and concentrated flavors.

The Domaine de Chevalier 2017 rosé is made from a blend of the same varietals used to produce the estate's famous Grand Vin: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. In the glass, this Bordeaux rosé displays a beautifully bright red currant color. On the nose, the wines is very fresh, offering aromas of red berries and a hint of spice. On the palate, the wine reveals a juicy texture and wonderful freshness. The finish is long and complex, echoing its noble terroir of origin.

Not quite as approachable as the King Estate, this wine still has very good flavors of red fruits and a lightly acidic finish. Works as a sipper or as a food wine for lighter summer fare. Priced around the $20 mark as well – made in the number 1 in the intro…

2018 Can Sumoi “La Rosa”, Penedes, Spain

Grape Varieties:  50% Sumoll (red), 30% Parellada (White) and 20% Xarel.lo (White)

Type:  Natural Rosé Wine             Alcohol Volume:  11%

Production:  Can Sumoi is the latest project from the Raventós family (Raventós I Blanc). Their new acquired estate in the Serra de l'Home in the Pla de Manlleu, DO Penedès, dates back to 1645 and comprises 20 ha of vines. Here, at 600 meters of altitude, is where the family, following their passion, produce their exceptional range of high-altitude natural still white wines from local varieties growing on limestone soils, farmed organically and made without the use of additives or any other manipulation. Grapes are hand-picked from sustainable, organic and biodynamic vineyards. Fermented in stainless steel vats at 16ºC for 21 days, only using native yeasts. Bottled unfiltered. Natural SO2:  9mg/l.

Best enjoyed in its youth within 1 – 2 years.

Tasting Notes: Wine with a strong Mediterranean character of a pale salmon color with scents of elegant fresh red fruits and floral notes, good fresh acidity finishing with a pleasantly nutty touch.

This is a different type of Rose. Less of a porch pounder, but one that goes well with all types of summer fare. Very good wine from Penedes – think the east side of Spain, towards Barcelona, whre a lot of Cava is produced. Price runs about $25 for this organic wine and it is made by #3 in the intro…

2017 Tenet “Le Fervent” Rose, Costieres de Nimes, France

Deeply concentrated red cherry and strawberry flavors are balanced by crisp acidity and invigorating mineral undertones here. It's a dry yet bold fruit-forward sipper, with a plump, juicy palate. Structured by fine tannins and savory, herbal flair, it's elegant and versatile enough to enjoy year round. Drink now–2021.

The term “fervent” is defined as “having intensity of spirit, feeling and enthusiasm,” an apt description of winemaker Michel Gassier’s passion for Syrah. Le Fervent is produced in Costières de Nîmes, the southern-most appellation of the Rhône Valley nestled on the shore of the Mediterranean, and is sourced from some of the coolest vineyard sites of the Southern Rhône, thanks to the strong maritime influence.

BLEND

65% Grenache, 25% Mourvèdre, 10% Cinsault

WINEMAKER'S NOTES

The wine is very pale pink with violet hues. Intense nose of crushed strawberries, pomegranate and floral notes. Very dynamic wine with a rich mouthfeel, fresh red berries and mineral flavors, and a long lively finish.

This was a well balanced Rose – flavorful as a sipper and flavorful with enough acidity to go with most summer fare. The region is actually Southern Rhone, although at one time was considered to be in the French wine lake of Languedoc. Priced around $20, maybe available for slightly less. Produced by #2 from the intro…

Hope you enjoyed the wines and everyone is staying safe. Keep popping those corks and I’ll meet you out behind the grapevines. I’m still easy enough to recognize with a mask on!

Wines of June 2020

Getting Hot Here

Been getting pretty toasty around my neighborhood - hope you are staying cool. Here are the wines for June, 2020

2018 Vina Tinajas del Maule Viejo Feo Carmenere Maule Valley, Chile

This handsome Carménère is brilliant, with dark reflections and an expressive character. Carménère is “the lost grape” from Bordeaux, France, and is now Chile’s flagship grape. It’s fruit-forward, lush, and dry with an aroma of black fruits, chocolate and coffee; soft & silky with a pleasant, lingering aftertaste.

Fantastic value with tons of fresh blackberry fruit and a elements of earth and spice. A real crowd-pleaser!

A decent every day Carmenere, decent fruit, short finish, but good for pizza and spaghetti. Under $10, nice to have on hand. 

This grape is the “lost” one from Bordeaux – after the American louse devoured the grape vines in France, this odd man out was left basically growing in Chile. For years, many of the plants were designated as Merlot, but testing in the 1990’s proved it to be Carmenere. That has made it a signature grape of the country.

2016 Para Maria Stolpman Vineyards Santa Barbara, California

#51 ENTHUSIAST 100 2017

This Syrah, which is enhanced by 15% Petit Verdot, is one of the better wines from the region on the market for less than $25. Awesome aromas of pepper, blackberry and charred beef are intense and deep, while the palate is lifted by bountiful acidity and flavors of boysenberry, white, black and green peppercorns, incense and sagebrush.

Para Maria already shows off its breadth and complexity at a tender young age. Lively, peppy balance and juicy brambly blackberry. Graphite and cracked pepper create an impression of seriousness with a hint of savory wood from the whole-bunch carbonic fermentation.

This is a serious syrah – not like a bottle of Aussie stuff with an animal on it. The Petit Verdot helps color  and adds a great nuance to the wine. Fruits are lush red, with pepper and herbs. Decent acidity that made it good with heavier fare at dinner. Really nice – I got it under $20. Great buy.

2017 El Jamon Garnacha Carinena, Spain

One of the more versatile red grapes in the world, Garnacha (known as Grenache in France) thrives in Spain. This Spanish gem has flavors of black raspberry and cherry fruit, with earthy notes of spice, leather, vanilla and mocha. Medium bodied with fine, soft tannins and well balanced acidity.

Another week night wine, these wines are always drinkable, with a little acidity to go with most fare. Short finish, no real tannins, but enough fruit to keep it interesting. Under $10 – probably$ 8.

2010 Gloria Ferrer Anniversary Cuvee Sonoma, California

Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyards—Sonoma Carneros’ original sparkling wine house—announces the release of Anniversary Cuvée, a vintage sparkling wine to toast life’s memorable moments from the simplest to the most spectacular.  Made from Sonoma County Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes, the Gloria Ferrer Anniversary Cuvée is assembled from 14 separately fermented lots of wine from the 2010 vintage. Fermented for 6 months before blending, the wine was then allowed to mature in bottle for five and a half years before disgorgement. 2010 Gloria Ferrer Anniversary Cuvée will be released nationally this month at a suggested retail price of $40.

2010 was one of the coolest vintages on record in Sonoma. The low temperatures resulted in a light crop, slow ripening and a later than usual harvest. The lower yield and extended hang time gave the grapes extraordinary concentration and character. Grapes for the 2010 Gloria Ferrer Anniversary Cuvée were hand harvested in small bins and pressed very gently in whole clusters. Only the first press juice, with its delicate flavors and aromas was used for this wine. Fermentation was in stainless steel at temperatures from 55º-60º F. The final blend is 67% Pinot Noir and 33% Chardonnay.

2010 Gloria Ferrer Anniversary Cuvée has a moderate alcohol content of 12.5 percent, making it an excellent choice to drink throughout a meal. Steven Urberg, Gloria Ferrer’s winemaker, describes the wine as displaying aromas of Asian pear and ripe apples, with hints of honey and vanilla.  On the palate, the mousse is rich and creamy. The fruit of the nose is enhanced with flavors of crème brûlée, stone fruit and black cherry, with a long finish that suggests fresh ginger. “This is an elegant wine that will be a fine partner with wine similarly festive dishes,” says Urberg. He suggests oysters on the half-shell, classic steamed lobster with drawn butter, lemon meringue pie or a fruit galette with crème fraiche. “It is a perfect wine for a great occasion and great company,” he says.

Wow – this was a close-out for just under $20 – I got half a case. Very good sparkler with great bubbles, that brioche and yeast flavors and pear and apple tones. Elegant is a good word for it. Buy it if you can get it!

2017 Chateau Ste Michelle Sauvignon Blanc Horse Heaven Hills, Washington

Aromas of grass, grapefruit and herb lead to a crisp citrus flavor on the full-bodied palate. These tones carry on the finish.  90 Points, Wine Enthusiast

This Sauvignon Blanc from our Horse Heaven Vineyard is a crisp, racy style of Sauvignon Blanc with citrus characteristics. We use partial stainless steel fermentation to preserve the Sauvignon Blanc’s pure, fresh, vibrant character.” Bob Bertheau, Winemaker

Nice Sauv blanc from Washington – clean with some citrus. Moderate finish, not something to go overboard on, but OK for this grape. Costs under $10 – good enough for that white wine to go with something before drinking the big red.

2015 Seigneurs D’Aiguilhe, Bordeaux, France

This balanced wine shows fine potential. Its structure dominates at the moment, with solid tannins, but the rich black fruit is all there. Let it develop over the next several years and drink from 2021.

Moving to the red and made from 80% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc, the 2015 Château D'Aiguilhe is also brilliant and well worth seeking out. Sporting a vibrant ruby/purple color as well as gorgeous notes of black raspberries and blue fruits, violates, bouquet garni, and spring flowers, it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, bright acidity, and firm tannin, all of which give it a masculine feel, despite having plenty of upfront fruit. This is a beautiful Côtes de Castillon that will benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring and keep for a decade or more.   - Jeb Dunnuck, 92 pts

Ripe, fragrant aromatics. Power but opulence and finesse as well. Fine, fresh grain of tannin and a persistent finish. One of the best yet from this Von Neipperg-owned (Canon-la-Gaffelière) estate.           - Decanter, 91 pts

This is a second or third label for this estate. That usually means the wine is “left-overs” and just barely passable. Not this wine – it tastes like an expensive Bordeaux – dark colors with red/black fruits with good body and a firm aftertaste. Would keep another 5 years in the cellar and taste great.  Priced around $30, but available as low as $23, good wine to buy and have on hand.

2015 Bootleg Wine Works Red, Napa County, California

This opulent, purple-hued wine is rich with aromas of bramble berries, baking spices and espresso. On the palate it exhibits flavors of plums, blueberry compote, soft vanilla and allspice, with hints of cigar box and black tea. The wine is full and inviting enough to enjoy on its own, yet structured enough to stand up to big, bold foods like prime rib, leg of lamb or BBQ.

Blend: 53% Merlot, 21% Petite Sirah, 20% Syrah, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot

Bootleg doesn’t have any vineyards – they buy the “extra” grapes that are usually available unless the growing season is a bad one. 2015 was a good year and the scored some nice grapes to make a nice red blend.  The mouthfeel is full, with dark fruits expanding into herb and spice nuances. Decent length aftertaste, some tannins, but not overpowering. Could sit for a few years, but very approachable now. Price is about $45, but is available for $35-40. Another nice bottle to have to serve to friends (when their not wearing masks…)

Another month – hope you are all staying safe. Keep popping those corks and I’ll meet you out behind the grapevines.