Wine in the Time of Covid-19

Time keeps Marching - March 2020 Wines

These have become unusual times, but the wine is still pouring.

2017 Bastide Miraflores Rouge Cotes du Roussillon

A custom cuvée for European Cellars and a joint project between Eric Solomon and Jean-Marc Lafage, Bastide Miraflors is a cuvée created from Grenache grown on rocky, alluvial clay soils resembling those of the Rhône Valley combined with Syrah grown on schist in the village of Maury. After a long maceration of six weeks the wine ages for 12 months in concrete (Grenache) and 600L French oak demi-muids (Syrah).

"A blend of 74% Syrah and 26% Grenache that was brought in a mix of tank and used barrels, the 2017 Bastide Miraflors has a fabulous minerality as well as terrific kirsch, black raspberry, wild fennel, white pepper, and hints of black licorice aromas and flavors. Pure, medium to full-bodied, silky, and seamless on the palate, it's perfectly balanced, and way over-delivers. Drink it over the coming 2-3 years."~J.D.

This wine had a different mid-palate taste. It was green, not dill from American oak or green pepper from unripe Cabernet, but more of a green olive hit. Turns out one review mentioned the breeze that flows through this area and that is what they figured that to be. Otherwise, it was not a great wine, although it went well with food. Good for the $12 price.

2016 Vidigal Reserva Red wine Cortes, Portugal

The Vidigal Reserve was one of the first Reserve wines in the region formerly known as Estremadura, now known as Lisbon. It is our belief that this region will have a key role in the future of Portuguese wines, while continuing to produce large quantities of the best wine at the lowest possible price. Vidigal Reserve is a sober wine, modern style, deep color, fruity, juicy, silky, medium-bodied and with a sensible alcohol.

This was a $8 bottle that pretty much drank like a $10 bottle. Decent fruit, modest nose, not much follow-thru on the end. Pizza wine.

2017 Drumheller Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, Washington

Drumheller has its roots in events that took place eons ago when Ice Age glacial dams broke loose and unleashed a series of epic floods. Imagine waters raging over eastern Washington at ten times the combined flow of every river in the world carving dramatic channels and sweeping vast volumes of sandy, loamy soil onto the Columbia Plateau. One of these, the Drumheller Channels, has achieved National Natural Landmark status for the stark beauty of its landscape and its rich geological significance.

This young, value brand by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, spearheaded by winemaker Tim Jones, is on the rise. Named for the Drumheller Channels created during the Ice Age Floods near Othello, Wash., it focuses on fruit from the Wahluke Slope. As a product of a record-hot growing year, this is redolent with aromas and flavors of black currant, black cherry and blackberry, backed by firm plum-skin tannins and bittersweet chocolate. Suggested food pairings include stuffed peppers, pork tenderloin, braised ribs or Death by Chocolate. Jones more than doubled his production from its debut vintage of 2014, and this bottling from the 2015 vintage won best of class at the 2017 Washington State Wine Competition. 

This is not a big upfront red wine like many Pacific Northwest Cabernets. Much more restrained with a wonderful flavor coming through from the backpalate and aftertaste. Red and black fruits but with essence of baked goods, maybe Brioche.Good finish that stays with the mouthfeel flavors. Around $10 – well worth that.

2018 Telmo & Ruth Cabernet Merlot Maule Valley, Chile

"Beautifully ripe Cabernet/Merlot blend, with a ruby deep color, showing blueberry and dark plum notes mixed with spice and roasted nut complexity. The palate delivers lovely fruit, medium bodied with silky texture and fine tannins. Pairs well with pasta, pizza, fish dishes or on its own." Winemaker's Notes

Cool artwork on the bottle this is a $10 bottle of Cabernet/Merlot that has bright fruits with a decent mouth fill – not much of herbs or spices; finish a little mild. Tannins fade into the taste. Another decent week-night wine.

The following wines were from the Gerard Bertrand collection:

Gerard Bertrand was born and raised in the South of France. Making wine with his father, Georges, since the age of 10, Gerard Bertrand offers the full range and diversity of wines from the region – red, white, rose, varietal, appellation, estate, still, sparkling, and dessert.

Every wine evokes the image and emotions from the South of France; "Art de Vivre" – the "art of life." Committed to producing quality wines of great value, Gerard is hands on in every facet which bears his name… and has been fortunate to receive great accolades from World Wide press reinforcing his dedication.

2016 Cuvee Thomas Jefferson Cremant de Limoux, France

Cremant Thomas Jefferson reveals a beautiful, golden yellow robe. Complex, aromatic nose revealing hints of white flower, with hints of honey, green apple and toast. Crisp, elegant structure on the palate, where the fine texture of the bubbles complements the wine naturally.

88 POINTS

Freshly dried straw, soft toast, lightly grilled yellow apple and a touch of dried lemon peel form the nose of this dry, attractive sparkler. The palate is bright and bubbly, with initially aggressive carbonation that mellows fast on the palate and yields a round, ripe yellow orchard-fruit flavor. Smooth and clean, the finish leaves you ready for more.

This sparkling wine made in the South of France is a wonderful example of Cremant (sparkling wine made in France outside the Champagne region) with very good flavor, sharp bubbles and a nice clean finish. Priced around $20, this is hard to beat, and like Pol Roger (Winston Churchill Cuvee) it is named after one of the more famous person that drank it. Think, this was kept at Monticello in the old days. Grab some and try it, it is really good.

2018 Perles de Sauvignon Blanc

The Sauvignon Blanc is characterized by its attractive citrus, and sometimes menthol, aromas and is nicely rounded on the palate. The aging of part of the wine in oak barrels gives structure and length in the mouth.

Wine Enthusiast - A new, fresh and vibrant wine from the powerhouse Languedoc producer, this boasts abundant aromas of green plum, gooseberry, orange rind and garrigue herbs. The lightweight palate is clean and refreshing, with a mouthwatering citrus verve to the close.

I have never been a giant fan of this grape, but this bottle was excellent. A pretty bottle with pearl shapes on it, the wine is aromatic, redolent with herbs and citrus finishing with a nice clean close. Also, not sealed with o cork, but a glass stopper. Priced around $22 (available at $20) this is a seafood wine that could go with other repasts.

2015 Tautavel , Cotes du Roussillon Villages, France

Intensely fruity on the nose, withred fruit and raspberry aromas underpinned by complex, spicy notes. A wonderful combination of supple tannins and delicate notes of scrubland and spices on the palate.

Blend: 40% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 20% Carignan

Critical Acclaim

RP90 Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Sporting a deep, saturated ruby color, the 2015 Côtes du Roussillon Villages Tautavel Grand Terroir checks in as a blend of 40% each of Grenache and Syrah, with the balance Carignan. Ripe black fruits, chocolate, licorice and smoked herbs give way to a ripe, sexy, concentrated and rounded effort that's a classic Old World fruit bomb. Drink this beauty over the coming 5-6 years.

This is a good, sturdy wine – moderate tannins and good red and black fruits with nuances of spices. Fruit forward for this area, but tasty. Priced around $18, good bottle for heavier meals.

2016 Gerard Bertrand Corbieres, France

Gerard Bertrand Corbieres is a deep, concentrated color. The complex aromas of black fruit come from the carefully controlled extraction during vinification and from the exceptional ripeness of the grapes. A wine of distinctive character with all the flavors of ripe fruit, with subtle hints of spices and licorice.

Critical Acclaim

W&S89                 Wine & Spirits

An over-the-top red, this sweetens its lush flavors of blueberries and purple plums with generous lashings of smoky, spicy oak. It’s clean and big-boned, built for steaks or beef barbecue.

Nicely made wine, smooth with red fruits, wet stones and slate with modest tannins. Not over the top, but a nice less intense wine than the other reds in this group. Priced around $18, good bottle to have on hand for grilling. 

2016 Chateau de Villemajou  Vin Rouge Corbieres, France

Villemajou is situated at Boutenac, well inside the Corbières appellation. The area supports ancient carignan vines (80 years) uniquely suited to the Mediterranean milieu of temperature, soil and light that are blended here with syrah, mourvèdre and grenache. The nose is an enticing mix of black and red fruits, and savoury, peppery, smoky, menthol, licorice notes that spill across the palate. Rich, long and balanced, this will age through 2026 with little problem. Best suited to more sumptuous meats like lamb or venison. Yields are 30 hl/ha, picking is by hand, and a small portion is a fermented whole bunch, to lift the fruit component before it's aged in 225-litre Bordeaux barrels for a year. It spends an additional 12 months in bottle before release.

This is a massive wine, with intense black and red fruit interwoven with peppercorns and dried herbs. Tannins are quite evident and lead to a long finish. Like chewing on a steak; this is drinking OK for now, but cellar it for 4 – 10 years to get the best out of it. Priced around $42, not an everyday wine, but inexpensive for a special wine.

Another month and more time inside. Hope you all stay safe and well. Until next time, Keep popping those corks and I'll meet you (socially distant) behind the grapevines.

February 2020

Another Chilly month of Wine

Hey! Someone added a day to the month. Happy Leap Day! Don't fall and break something...

Here are some wines I enjoyed in the month.

2014 Sextant Wheelhouse Zinfandel, Paso Robles, Ca

90 POINTS      Wine Enthusiast

Sextant 2014 Wheelhouse Zinfandel (Paso Robles)

Black-cherry fruit is decorated with crushed thyme, dried sage, roasted meat and cinnamon on the nose of this bottling. The palate offers more cherry fruit but also a bit of black-plum-skin tartness, as well as decent amounts of asphalt and turned earth.

Boysenberries, black pepper and sandalwood take center stage followed by plum and anise. The nose and palate work together flawlessly. The tannins are firm. Vibrant acidity contributes to a lively mouth feel followed by a long finish.

Pretty nice zinfandel from the south California wine region – nose was modest, but the flavors were red fruits with hints of spice. Modest tannins, but a moderate finish. Very good at under $15.

2014 Kenwood Jack London Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Ca

Winemaker Notes

The Jack London Cabernet Sauvignon thrives in the warm morning sun and cooling afternoon breeze, in combination with the vineyard's red volcanic soil. Bold and luscious, this wine offers intense black cherry and currant aromas with notes of roasted cocoa bean and mint. The rich character and flavors come together in a strong, elegant finish.

WW92   Wilfred Wong of Wine.com

COMMENTARY: I have followed Kenwood's Jack London Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon for a long time, and I have been a fan of their efforts. The 2014 vintage is one of the winery's best efforts to date.

 TASTING NOTES: This wine shows excellent richness from beginning to end, and it stays well balanced and refined. Its taut berry flavors and crisp finish make it a fine choice with a ribeye. (Tasted: May 10, 2018, San Francisco, CA)

I’ve been a fan of Jack London vineyard for decades, but haven’t seen much in my market. This is a tasty Sonoma cabernet – red and black fruits with some cocoa and herbs. Moderate finish with light tannins, a wine that blends well with red meats and heavy sauces.  I think it was a close out at $20, a really good wine for the price.

2018 Aniello “006” Pinot Noir, Rio Negro, Patagonia Argentina

89 pts Wine Advocate Issue #237 June 2018

Named after the plot where the grapes were sourced, the 2017 006 Pinot Noir fermented in concrete vats with full clusters and indigenous yeasts. Fifty percent of the wine matured in used 225-liter oak barrels, with the rest kept in concrete, and it was bottled six months after the harvest. It's medium-bodied with fine tannins, varietal notes of red berries and a floral touch. Tasty, clean, balanced and pleasant, easy to drink.

Patagonia is pretty far south in Argentina, but using the coolness has made Pinot Noir a great grape to grow in this region. Nice nose of raspberry and cherry hints; the mouth feel is red fruits with a little touch of tannin. A little light in body but a nice Pinot for around $15.

2017 Pinot Envy Pinot Noir, Wllamette Valley, Oregon

Critical Acclaim

JS91 James Suckling

A very vibrant, fresh pinot that offers rich red cherries, as well as a spicy edge on the nose and palate. Crisp tannins deliver an upbeat, crunchy feel. Drink now.

Leading with a brooding dark ruby red color, 2017 Pinot Envy is a complex wine that has remarkable aromas of cigar box, ripe black cherries, graphite, clove and raspberry. There are dark fruit flavors

like blackberry and black cherry that are followed by subtle notes of black tea, graham cracker, toast and earth. This is round and silky on the palate with a mouth-coating, full texture. Enjoy now and through at least 2030.

This Pinot is classical Oregon – good body, red fruits with hints of herbs. Full mouthfeel – a wine that stands to food but is also good to sip. Picture of Freud on the front – neat packaging. Priced around $21, a nice Pinot to serve to your friends.

2018 Fess Parker Pinot Noir, Sta Hills, Ca

Winemaker Notes

Aromas of black cherry, sassafras, forest floor, baking spices, black tea, vanilla and sandalwood. Flavors of black cherry, red plum, milk chocolate, cranberry, wild strawberry, cinnamon, clove and nutmeg.

Critical Acclaim

WW90 Wilfred Wong of Wine.com

COMMENTARY: The 2018 Fess Parker Pinot Noir is a well-made wine. TASTING NOTES: This wine has all its parts in the right place. Its aromas and flavors are spot-on, showing excellent racy, red fruits. Pair it with a pan-seared lamb chop. (Tasted: February 13, 2020, San Francisco, CA)

TASTING NOTES

COLOR: garnet AROMAS: black cherry, sassafras, forest floor, baking spices, black tea, vanilla, sandalwood FLAVORS: black cherry, red plum, milk chocolate, cranberry, wild strawberry, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg

This is a well made Pinot from Santa Rita Hills region. Modest nose, but the flavors are expressive – cherry, plum and some spice and herbs. Nice body, good for meals and for just sipping.  Decent finish, hints of tannin but very smooth. Generally, available around $25, another good example of California Pinot – not trying to be Burgundy, but a New World style.

2015 Burn Cottage Pinot Noir, Central Otago, NZ

Critical Acclaim

RP94 Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The medium to full-bodied 2015 Burn Cottage Vineyard Pinot Noir offers up aromas of roses, ripe cherries, crushed stone and subtle hints of pencil shavings. Despite 31% whole clusters and 19% new oak, neither is readily apparent on the nose at this stage. On the palate, there's a sense of restrained fruit coupled with wiry, herbal, tea-like nuances that add complexity and texture, extending through a long, silky finish. This remarkable property remains at the forefront of Central Otago Pinot Noir producers.

JS94 James Suckling

A nice evolution is in play. This wine is gathering power and finesse simultaneously, becoming more and more defined. Super fragrant strawberry and red cherry fruits on the nose with some meaty, spicy elements adding interest. The palate is lacy and enticing, with a core of vibrant strawberry and red cherry flavor. Fne tannins sweep long and even. A wine that delivers both pleasure and a sense of purpose. Drink now.

WS92 Wine Spectator

Elegant and lithe, with peppery accents and an Earl Grey tea note to complement the core of juicy cherry and berry flavors, lingering on a toasted herb accent. Drink now through 2028.

This is a heavy, New Zealand style pinot that is really big. Not really a sipper, this cries out for food. Expressive nose of cherry and strawberry; flavors follow with those fruits and some earthiness and spice. Develops as it remains in the glass – a multi-textured wine that is fairly complex as you drink it. Fairly long aftertaste with integrated tannins. A real blockbuster – runs around $60. Impressive.

Another month has gone by. Until next month, Keep popping those corks and I'll meet you out behind the grapevines.

First month of 2020

The Wines of January 2020

I hope your New Year and new decade are progressing nicely.  Crazy weather where I am - hot one day then snowy and cold the next. One constant - drinking wine. 

2012 Chateau Ste. Michelle Ethos Reserve Cabernet sauvignon, Columbia Valley, Washington

Chateau Ste. Michelle crafts Ethos Reserve Cabernet to showcase the power and richness of Washington fruit combined with Old World elegance. A majority of the fruit comes from our 40-year-old Cold Creek Vineyard which provides the wine’s power and structure. This is the most complex of our Cabernets and offers layers of ripe blueberry fruit with silky tannins.

Blend: 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot

RP 93 Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

One of the standouts in the lineup is the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Ethos Reserve, which comes from a number of sites in the Columbia valley and incorporates 10% Merlot. Aged in 53% new French and American oak, this full-bodied, rich, unctuously textured and concentrated Cabernet is loaded with notions of currants, blueberries, smoked herbs, and licorice. Possessing low acidity, a plump, sexy profile and no hard edges, it can be enjoyed anytime over the coming decade.

WE 91Wine Enthusiast

Cold Creek Vineyard provides the majority of the fruit for this wine, with the rest coming from the Wahluke Slope. It's immediate in its appeal with aromas of cocoa, dark chocolate and black fruit. The coffee flavors show a mixture of fruit and barrel, with some graininess to the tannins.

WS90Wine Spectator

Chewy, with tannins around a smoky core of blackberry, currant and roast beef. Comes together with intensity on the finish. Best from 2018 through 2022.

This was a gift a couple of years ago from my brother. He indicated it could use some time in the cellar. I opened it just after the Holidays for a nice hearty meal. Wow!  I could have left it for at least 5 more years – the tannins were still evident, although not overpowering the fruit. Delicious dark berry fruits with hints of graphite, dusky herbs and cocoa. A really great wine – prices range in the $40’s for this. I liked it so much I was able to get a 2013 to put in my cellar at around the same price. Great wine.

2017 Ridge Three Valleys, Sonoma County, California

Deep garnet color. Fresh raspberry and cherry fruits, barrel spice, clay minerals, and fresh mint. Sweet red berry fruit entry, medium body, lively acid, and supple tannins. Long, elegant finish.

Blend: 73% Zinfandel, 15% Petite Sirah, 10% Carignane, 2% Grenache

WW 91Wilfred Wong of Wine.com

COMMENTARY: With such a star-studded line up that Ridge Vineyards has with its world of wines, the Three Valleys Red Wine is sometimes overlooked by my wine pals and myself. Fortunately, after tasting the wines over a decade, I have grown to appreciate this wine. The 2017 vintage possesses what it needs, and it belongs in the company of the best. TASTING NOTES: This wine is nicely balanced and pleasingly open-knit. Its aromas and flavors of ripe berries are already showing well. Pair it with a double-thick grilled pork chop. (Tasted: February 27, 2019, San Francisco, CA)

WS91Wine Spectator

Lively and well-built, with expressive cherry, roasted dill and white pepper flavors that glide toward refined tannins. Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Carignane and Grenache.

A close out special at $20, this is typical of the field blends that Ridge is known for. 2% short of Zinfandel to be called that, but a very nice blend with bright red fruits, a nice acidic backbone, hints of tannins and a good finish. I only bought one – what a dope – at this price, buy several and drink over the next year or so.

2017 Petra Zingari Toscana, Tuscany,Italy

#29 Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2019

WS93Wine Spectator

A well of dark cherry, black currant and blackberry fruit makes this red sumptuous and inviting. Fresh earth, thyme and rosemary accents add depth. A mineral element emerges on the long finish. Shows fine balance overall. Merlot, Sangiovese, Petit Verdot and Syrah. Drink now through 2032.

JS93James Suckling

A delicious red that shows red plums, brambleberries, undergrowth, cedar and freshly cut herbs. Medium to full body, delightful, juicy tannins and a tangy, medium-long finish. A blend with equal measures of merlot, sangiovese, syrah and petit verdot. Drink now or hold.

A really nice inexpensive Super-Tuscan. The petite Verdot is an unusual addition but blended nicely.  Nice red fruits with some herb and mineral depth in the mouth. Good finish, nice acidic backbone to be a good food wine. Priced under $20 – possibly as low as $12, a real buy to have on hand.

2014 Sextant Wheelhouse Zinfandel, Paso Robles, Ca

90 POINTS           Wine Enthusiast

Black-cherry fruit is decorated with crushed thyme, dried sage, roasted meat and cinnamon on the nose of this bottling. The palate offers more cherry fruit but also a bit of black-plum-skin tartness, as well as decent amounts of asphalt and turned earth.

Paso Robles, CA- Boysenberries, black pepper and sandalwood take center stage followed by plum and anise. The nose and palate work together flawlessly. The tannins are firm. Vibrant acidity contributes to a lively mouth feel followed by a long finish.

A fun little wine you can get for about $14 (Reg. $24) – it is a nicely textured zinfandel with nice red fruits and hints of earthiness and herbs. Not “spicy”, but well balanced with nice backbone to bear up with meats. Well worth the money.

2016 Vietti “Perbacco” Nebbiolo, Langhe, Italy

93 Robert Parker - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Luca Currado likes to remind me that this wine could qualify as a full-fledged Barolo. Barrels not used in the final Barolo Castiglione blend are used to make the 2016 Langhe Nebbiolo Perbacco. In fact, its very name “Perbacco” translates into a somewhat corny “golly gosh” because that was the reaction Luca’s mom had when she first tasted the wine and was told it was not a Barolo. “Perbacco, it tastes like Barolo,” was her comment—and a legend was born. The Vietti family, along with Bartolo Mascarello and Dott G Cappellano back in the day, had battled for some variation of a Rosso di Barolo in the appellation laws. That never happened, but Langhe Nebbiolo is a concept that follows that same idea: you get great Nebbiolo quality at a fraction of the price. Today, Langhe Nebbiolo is one of the fastest-growing categories in the entire wine region. This beautiful vintage, with its balanced fruit and freshness, is a perfect example.

Description: Offers up generous fruit along with menthol, spices & hard candy, showing notable intensity while retaining an essentially mid-weight style. Strong, intense & powerful when young, complex & elegant with the ageing. Food Pairings: Hearty stew, wild game, roasted red meats & sharp, aged cheeses

Nebbiolo tends to surprise me – it can be a very tannic wine but it is never really deep dark red. The grape of Barolo – one of the pricey and sought after wines from Italy, this wine is a real gem. Ageable in the near term (2 -3 years) it is clean with great red fruit, chalky mineral notes and hints of spice. Nice balance, works well as a food wine with a nice moderate finish. Priced around $25, this is a great wine to impress your friends and enjoy with an Italian repast.

2013 Tolaini “Legit” Cabernet Sauvignon, Toscana, Italy

Wine Spectator 94

This is broad and incisive, delivering black currant, plum, leather, earth and wild herb flavors. Dense and beefy, yet with ample fruit for balance, driven by vibrant acidity. This is starting to mellow but still has years of life ahead. Drink now through 2036"

Rich dark fruit, berry and cassis aromas meld with notable French oak spice. On the palate this is full-bodied with deep but reserved fruit flavors framed by rich oak. The excellent balance of fruit intensity with fine tannins indicates a cellar-worthy wine.

Legit

Legit"Don't play everything, let some things go by. What you don't play can be more important than what you do".

A philosophy of a musician whose enduring legacy continues to inspire listeners, artists and artisans around the world. Music, the language of soul, universally understood and appreciated in spite of borders and barriers. Indeed its rhythm transcends those things and makes our collective hearts to beat as one. We argue that wine has a similar ability. The grapes each a note in a composition written in a universal language. The author, an artisan improvising with practiced deft, not playing everything, letting some things go by. Little wonder then that when Tuscan vintner and international wine importer Lia Tolaini Banville met the grandchildren of the great Thelonious Monk, she was inspired to a collaboration to honor his memory with a singular wine from her family estate - LEGIT.

The picture is of Thelonious Monk – a Jazz legend composer and pianist , not some pop artist. This Cabernet is literally a monster – still tannic, yet carrying dark fruits, herbs and hints of graphite and cedar shavings. It is drinkable with a slab of meat, but needs a number of years in the cellar. A phenomenal wine that runs about $40-44 – a wine this quality is usually more expensive. You could tell your wine friends it cost twice the price and it would be believable. Truly LEGIT.

Well, another month has shot by, hope your New Year is off to a great start. Until next time, keep popping those corks and I’ll meet you out behind the grapevines.

A Post Christmas Special

Some Tasty Wines with Friends

On December 27, 2019 I was invited to my friend Chris Kowalski’s house to drink some nice wines. The party consisted of Chris, myself, Ryan Maderak, Dan Stockemer and Dewey McLaughlin. We had a nice meal and drank 2 vintages of Chateau Pontet-Canet, one a 2000 vintage and a 2005 vintage.

                From here I will let Ryan’s eloquent notes explain the wonderful wines we enjoyed.

I dare say that last night was my wine night of the year. Incredible lineup of wines with a great group of people.

It was a particularly special wine night for me, featuring one of my "cellar babies," the 2000 Pontet-Canet, my longest cellar resident, one of the very first wines I bought when I started collecting 16 years ago, before I really knew much about wine, and certainly didn't know that Bordeaux would be one of my great loves in wine. I was rather shocked to discover that I didn't get a picture of it. How did it turn out? Read on.

Also worth noting that this night continued two peculiar trends that have occurred mostly randomly: Pontet-Canet is the red Bordeaux I've had the most vintages of (1970, 1997, 2000, 2002, 2003, 2005; plus 2000 and 2003 of their second label); and Lafaurie-Peyraguey, which happens to be my favorite Sauternes (d'Yquem is greater, but L-P is still my favorite) is the Sauternes I've had the most vintages of (1988, 1989, 1998, 2003, 2005; plus 2004 of their second label).

Jean Christophe Mandard, Domaine Mandard, Brut, Touraine NV

Light golden. Subtle but lovely and deep nose of rich stone fruits, orange, with loads of cashew, yeast/bread crust, and mineral. Palate: Ripe red apple, apricot, raspberry, orange/lime, some spice, yeast, mineral. Medium-full with stunning mouthfeel, sweet, succulent fruit, lovely finish. Love it! 3.5 Stars [12/26/19]

(*Editors note – the Mandard is actually made from old vine Orbios (also known as Arbios) – a lesser known and less planted grape allowed in the Loire Valley. Known as coarser than other Loire varietals, it usually is a fill-in grape in other wines.)

La Nerthe, Les Cassagnes, Cotes du Rhone 2018

50% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, 20% Cinsault. Lovely medium-light, salmon/pink. Nose: loads of sweet strawberry and watermelon, with hints of cassis and plum, sweet, chocolatey earth, herbs, olives, and stone; an incredible nose for a rose, all of CdP’s depth and character. Palate: raspberry, dark cherry, cassis, plum, tobacco, green olive, cocoa-powder laced earth, and stone, all with orange rind. Medium bodied, captivating texture, sweet and succulent and slightly savory, excellent finish. Extraordinary rose. 3.5+ Stars [12/27/19]

Davis Estates, Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain 2013

Dark garnet. Awesome nose, loads of dark, heady berry fruits, fine cured tobacco, some chocolatey earth, firm stone, and some Pauillac-style graphite and leather. On the palate, incredibly sweet-succulent dark cherry, meaty currant, fresh blackberry, herbaceous tobacco leaf, spice, and firm stone/graphite, with mineral-laden finish, all underlaid by liqueur notes. Full and dense, with sweet-tart, succulent, fleshy ripe but with incredibly elegant balance, all with a fine, lingering note of toasty oak; long, mineral laden, dense, dark, finish. I love the sweet-tart, crunchy fruit. Wow, I am smitten by this. 10 - 15, maybe 20 strong years ahead. 4.5 Stars [12/27/19]

Pontet-Canet, Pauillac 2005

Great color, dark ruby, pink at the rim. Awesome nose with extraordinary depth; ripe, dense, succulent cassis, blackberry, blueberry, cigar tobacco, herbs, and loads of tarry, mineral-laden earth, all underlaid by Pauillac leather and tobacco, and sweet, aromatic roses lingering. Palate: fleshy, succulent, slightly sweet-tart, black cherry, red currant and cassis, blueberry and blackberry, with firm stone/graphite, cured tobacco with some slightly minty/herbaceous notes, all underlaid with liqueur-like notes, and an extraordinary finish of dark berries, spice, and tar, and tannin that with great, satisfying length. Full bodied, fleshy, with racy acid, loads of spicy tannin still. Very youthful structure still. Will benefit from 5 - 10 more years, and last for 20 - 30. Extraordinary and captivating. 4.5 Stars [12/27/19]

Pontet-Canet, Pauillac 2000

Great color, opaque garnet, some bricking at the rim. Phenomenal nose, endless mineral depth, with entrancing cassis, dried blackberry, gorgeous cured tobacco and roses, with incredibly deep tarry earth, endless aromatic depth, absolutely gorgeous; roses, violets, gorgeous, sweet, aromatic red fruit; mint, licorice, dates, prunes, camphor, fire ember; endless, amazing, one of the very greatest Bordeaux noses I’ve experience. Palate: ridiculous, gorgeous, captivating fresh blackberry, cranberry, currants, orange rind, fresh, succulent tobacco leaf, blueberry liqueur, loads of lovely tarry earth and mineral, long, penetrating, expansive finish of sweet red fruits, spice, mineral, dates; dear lord. Full bodied, dense, and potent, with endless finesse; the acid tone and balance are nearly perfection; that incredible combination of tarry earth, tobacco, and sweet red fruit is just unbelievably captivating; fine mineral lingers endlessly on the finish. Just now approaching maturity, 5 - 10 years will be benefit it, and its balance is such that it can age for decades more; it will be teasing us in 50 years; 30 - 40 years ahead. One of the five greatest bottles of Bordeaux I’ve ever had. 5 Stars, and will improve, it may be perfection when fully mature. [12/27/19]

Lafaurie-Peyraguey, Sauternes 2005

Gorgeous color, medium-golden, with touches of orange, but also a hint of green. Absolutely stunning nose, pears and stone fruits and white flowers and stone, endless depth of nectar and nutmeg and allspice and mineral; incredible; hints of raspberry and raspberry leaf; phenomenal Sauternes nose, like a 1er Cru Puligny, the depth and finesse of stone and flowers is dumbfounding. Palate: stunning, fleshy apricot and plum, raspberry, tropical fruits (kiwi, papaya, pineapple), ripe, candied pear, a touch of candied ginger, with gorgeous nutmeg and allspice, and an ethereal, long finish of mineral, nectar, and subtle spice. Full bodied and intense, supreme elegance and finesse, sweet, fleshy, succulent fruit, phenomenal sweet-tart acid balance; ends with a spicy bitterness that throws everything else into glorious relief. Amazing. 10 - 15 years more to full maturity, 30 - 40 years ahead. 5 Stars [12/27/19]

Ferrari-Carano, Baci NV

“Red wine with natural chocolate flavor.” Medium ruby with a touch of purple. Nose: fig, blackberry, blackberry, with coffee and chocolate. Palate: fresh blackberry jam, cassis, coffee, chocolate, all with spirit and mineral; sweet red fruits linger on the mineral, spice, and tannin-laden finish. Extraordinary achievement for this kind of wine. 3.5 Stars [12/27/19]

If I may say, this was an excellent evening, spent with good people, good food and even better wines. Thank you Dr. Maderak for taking wonderful notes to remember this evening. Till next time, keep popping those corks and I'll meet you out behind the grapevines.

The Wines of December 2019

Happy Holidays - December 2019 Wines

The Holidays have come and gone - hope yours was fun. Time keeps moving faster and faster - can't believe it is already 2020! Here are a few of last months wines.

2017 Prieure Saint Come Chablis, France

Slight burnt bronze yellow on the pour, citrus fruit on the nose; pretty acidic and tarty in the mouth with more citrus fruit, green apple, apricot; very crisp and refreshing; clean, no oak influence so the flavor really powers through.

You can pair this wine with just about anything but seafood would be really ideal; scallops, halibut, oysters, anything along those lines would be amazing.  We enjoyed it on its own, outside on a warm August day, and really enjoyed it.

A nice unoaked Chablis with a nice acidic balance to go with many food choices (lighter style – fish, chicken, etc.). Pleasant as a sipping wine – was a gift but price seems to be around $15 – worth drinking at that price.

2016 Columbia Crest Horse Heaven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington

This bold Cabernet opens with flavors of black cherries and blackberries with a touch of currants and vanilla, complemented by earth and mineral notes. Deep berry flavors lead to a soft tannin cocoa finish.

Food Pairings: Pasta Bolognese, Braised Lamb Shank, Beef Pot Roast, Strongly Flavored Cheeses

Critical Acclaim  WS90Wine Spectator

Supple and approachable, with lively black cherry and spiced herb flavors that linger on the finish. Drink now through 2022.

Was an email special at $11 – well worth the $$. Had some tannin in the backbone, so a couple years in bottle won’t hurt it. Drinking nicely now, good black fruits and a nice balance. Good with beef and red sauces. Buy some – it is a nice wine.

2016 Il Bruciato Tenuita Guadi Al Tasso, Bolgheri, Italy

The 2016 Bruciato offers an intense ruby red color. On the nose, the aromas of ripe red berry fruit, sweet spices, and a light and fresh minty note are the most prominent sensations. The palate is well structured, persistent, and very pleasurable in its fruity finish and aftertaste.

Blend: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 15% Syrah

Critical Acclaim

JS94       James Suckling

This second wine shows such a great balance of round tannins and juicy, creamy and chocolate character. Full, flavorful and joyful. Salty and juicy. Savory and even meaty. Drink now or hold.

RP93      Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

This is absolutely one of the best value wines you will find in Italy and I suspect beyond. The 2016 Bolgheri Rosso Il Bruciato is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 15% Syrah. This vintage comes together with seamless intensity and smoothness. You get so much dark fruit flavor, paired with soft tannins, spice, smoke and dried blackberry. Il Bruciato pulls off its magic effortlessly. It doesn't try to be anything other than it is: Delicious. Rating:93+

WS90     Wine Spectator

Cherry jam, blackberry and floral aromas and flavors prevail in this fruity red. Well-structured and balanced, if showing a youthful exuberance. Fine length. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. Best from 2020 through 2028.

This was surprise wine I found at clearance for $20. Regular retail is only $27, but felt like a bargain. A super Tuscan from Antinori in my price range – very nice wine. Had the legs to hold for several years, but is drinking nicely now.  Mostly flavors of dark fruit with hints of chocolate, minerals and hints of earthiness. Moderate finish, a real meaty type wine. Worth the price – grab a bottle or two and hang on to one for a while.

2007 Hafner Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Ca

This red wine was produced by fermenting the juice with the skins to extract their color and flavor. CO2  gas (a by-product of fermentation) bubbled up through the skins causing them to float to the top and form the “cap”. To extract the grapes’ color and flavor, we pumped juice from the bottom of the tank and sprinkled it over the cap throughout fermentation.

Following the Bordeaux tradition of extended maceration, the wine stayed on the skins for another two weeks to soften the young tannins. We then moved the Cabernet into our caves where it was aged in French (80%) and American (20%) oak barrels. During its first Winter, the wine underwent malolactic fermentation which lowered its acidity and added richness. In its second year, this Cabernet was aged in both oak barrels and tanks. After many blending trials, we added 2% Petit Verdot and 5% Malbec to this Cabernet to increase the wine’s depth and richness. It was bottled in August 2009.

At our Annual Vertical Tasting in January 2019, we tasted the 2007 and here are our notes: Lovely. Sweet berries, plums, black cherries, carpaccio and cassis aromas. Soft on the palate with a bright fruit middle. Niçoise olives, bittersweet chocolate, rose petals and sweet vanilla notes add richness and depth.

This was a gift from my brothers cellar – only problem was the cork crumbled while I tried to pull it. Even the Ah-So couldn’t save it so part of the cork went a-swimming. I strained it to drink and the wine is drinking very well. The fruit has held up well, the finish was moderate – most of the tannins have completely mellowed. This small Sonoma winery makes a good product and this is an excellent example of how well their cabernet stands up.

2016 Verdicchio de Castelli de Jesi, Marche, Italy

Bright straw. Lime and green apple on the nose. Then sneaky concentration to the pomaceous orchard fruit and almond flavors. The finish is long, bright and juicy. Lovely entry-level Verdicchio wine. Drinking window: 2018 - 2021."

A nice dry, medium body wine to have with a roasted turkey breast. Price was around $12, served the purpose well. Not overpowering, but nicely fruited with a good acidic balance. For when you need a nice inexpensive white that isn’t Chardonnay.

2017 Vina Cobos Felino Malbec, Mendoza Argentina

Violet red with black tones. An attractive nose with aromas of fresh black fruits and prunes. The palate displays good concentration, balance and sweet yet supple tannins.

Critical Acclaim

JS93       James Suckling

A vivid and linear wine with blackberry and blueberry character. Granite. Medium body, fine tannins and a fresh finish.

RP90      Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

I also tasted the just-bottled 2017 Felino Malbec, of which a whopping 651,000 bottles have been produced. They increased the percentage of French oak and reduced the use of American oak a bit, and the wood seems better integrated, neatly folded into the fruit. It felt a little closed (it was just bottled), and I sensed the difference between the cooler 2016 and the riper 2017, but the wine didn't show any excess and felt very balanced and harmonious. At the same time, they are also changing the image, with a cleaner, easier to read label that also reflects the character of the wine. It has very fine tannins and a great mouthfeel. Amazing quality for the volume. It slowly opened up in the glass and didn't stop to grow. Rating: 90+

A South American wine from Paul Hobbs – I noted it had some tannins, bright red fruits and some spices; a nice lasting finish. A really balanced bottle with great fruit showing in the mouth, without being a fruit bomb.  Very enjoyable wine, retail is around $20, well worth the price.

Well, it's been fun, hope you enjoyed these wines. I've got some more items to post, but seem to be slow getting around. Meanwhile, keep popping those corks and I'll meet you out behind the grapevines.

November 19 Wines

Wines of November 2019

I hope you are not too stuffed from Thanksgiving - here are some wines I've enjoyed.

2015 Feixa Negra, Priorat, Spain

Tasting Notes:  This is 50% Garnacha and 50% Carineña, and thus a classic Priorat blend.  It sees six months in oak barrels.  The color is a dark, ruby red and transparent.  Red and black fruits on the nose, with hints of oak, vanilla and caramel.  On the palate the wine has brisk tannins and good balance.  It is medium+ in body.  Nice structure frames a long finish.  This is a quality wine, and is just short of the big, bold Priorats that would also cost much more.  Here you get all the pieces, albeit in a slightly tamed version.  Still, it is an excellent wine and shows you what Priorat can bring.

A very good wine that I got for about $10. Still had a little tannin so not close to over the hill. Bright fruits, a broad palate and a good finish. Really nice bottle of wine from Priorat that was affordable.

2014 Gravel Bar Alluvial Red Blend, Columbia Valley, Washington

This is a full-bodied red with vibrant flavors of dried cherries, plum, toffee, chocolate and vanilla. The structure is rich, with bold tannins extending the finish.

Pairs well with lamb burgers, beef stew and baked penne with pork ragu.

Blend: 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 10% Malbec, 10% Petit Verdot

VINEYARD NOTES:

For more than twenty centuries, torrential floodwaters from melting ice-age glaciers sculpted eastern

Washington's Columbia Valley, leaving in their wake deep deposits of sandy, rocky, alluvial soils. Today, framing the Columbia River, broad plains of ancient sediment constitutes one of the world's finest wine grape growing regions.

This wine is at its peak about now. Pleasant blend with a broad palate of red fruits. Tannins are mostly gone but a nice moderate finish. I got it for about $10, but worth the $15-18.

2016 Walking Dead Cabernet Sauvignon, California

The Wine:

Don’t let this wine catch you unaware, The Walking Dead Cabernet Sauvignon opens with notes of blackberry with nutmeg and mocha spices. This full-bodied wine reveals flavors of dark cherries and currants which pool on the palate, giving way to notes of mocha and spice. Fine, chocolaty tannins hold the long smooth finish.

Winemaking:

To achieve the rich varietal expression and approachable fruit profile in our Cabernet Sauvignon, we harvested our fruit at the peak of ripeness, followed by frequent pump-overs throughout fermentation. This constant contact between the skins and juice enables maximum flavor extraction from the fruit. We then aged the wine for approximately 11 months in a combination of American and French oak barrels to lend sweet, toasty vanilla tones and build structure.

OK, I got this for under $10 (7.99 maybe). Not the worst wine I’ve had, but it didn’t do a lot for me. Nose was just average, the mouthfeel was a little hollow in the middle palate. Finish was relative short, not much tannin. Drink at your own risk…

2017 Gonzalo de Berceo Tempranillo Blanco, Rioja, Spain

Bright and clear, this wine projects a pale, lemon yellow color and really shines in the glass. Great, expressive aromas of peach, pear & tropical fruits, with nuances of fresh grass, cream & white pepper. This complex nose leads to a fresh, crisp palate, that is suprisingly round as well, with reminiscent ripe & tropical fruits. A gem of a wine.

An elegant, yet lifted aroma of ripe fruits and a touch of organic earth rise from the glass. A touch of spices, cream & vanilla from the oak aging is present as well. The flavor matches, with an elegant, mellow yet fresh and ripe palate. Velvety tannins close out this wine, and enough acidity to provide a well balanced wine.

White Tempranillo was discovered in 1988 – in the mid 2000’s, it was finally approved as a white version of the Spanish red Tempanillo. Only grows in Rioja and often used as blending grape with other white grapes, this is an excellent white wine. Nice acidity for food, good fruits, pear and tropical and nuances of spices. Little pricey, but worth a try at around $26.

2017 Malpie Listan Negro, Canary Islands, Spain

Among the young wine selections, a young and pleasant red. Cherry red with violet tones of great intensity, clean and bright. Aromas of minerals and wild red fruits, balsamic. Great body and volume. The palate is powerful, enveloping, fresh while intense, ripe tannins and long pass.

This is an unusual but very nice wine from the Canary Islands (part of Spain, even though they lie off the coast of Africa). Not a lot of tannin, but nice bright red fruits, acidity for food and a modest yet pleasing finish. Flavor I described as silky yet a hint dusty, like volcanic ash. Runs around $23 – worth a try to say you have had it!

2011 Finca San Blas Labor del Almadeque, Utiel-Requena, Spain

Grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon 50% and Tempranillo 50%.

Vineyard: Tempranillo comes from the plot called «Viña Norte» (5 ha) and Cabernet Sauvignon, from the one named «El Duende» (4 ha). Planting pattern 2800 vines per ha. High density and leaf surface treillis. Clayey-chalky soil.

Winemaking: each grape variety is fermented separately. Maceration for three weeks. Malolactic fermentation in new French oak barrels from the center of France, fine-grained and slightly toasted.

Aging: 16 months in new French oak barrels (fine-grained) from Allier forests (Cabernet Sauvignon) and second-use American oak barrels (Tempranillo).

Tasting notes: opaque cherry red colour. Intense and highly concentrated aromas, ripe black fruit with hints of jam and marmalade, smoky oak, spicy hints of clove and pepper. Strong end, especially liquorice and fennel. The palate is tasty, fleshy, with ripe and very rounded tannins. Nice hints of very well integrated oak, with sweety notes and a spicy and mineral background. Long aftertaste.

I noted this a a big broad shoulder wine – and this is the current release (2011). The tannins are still holding in this wine, with deep dark fruits, a good palate filling flavor and a lengthy finish.  Really good blend that would hold up for several years of aging. Priced at around $23, very nice bottle of wine.

2015 Demencia Taruquin Tinto, Ribera del Duero, Spain

*RATING: 91 Points - The Wine Advocate* More arrogant, independent, very elegant and deep, it is a great expression of an area and an old vineyard that we work organically. With a nose that mixes mint and chalk sensations, the 2015 Taruguin feels quite different from the 2014. The fruit is ripe without excess, the oak is neatly integrated and there is better balance and less rusticity on the palate. There are abundant tannins that are going to require some time in bottle to be rendered invisible. A powerful Tempranillo! Pairs well with the classic, grilled meat dishes of the region. Lamb or beef lead the way, but can also be had with many game dishes, as well as hearty stews and the like. Ribera del Duero D.O.

This wines nose was a little subdues, but the flavors burst on the palate. There are tannins, this wine will age for a number of years. I called it a real big-boy type of wine, approachable but better in a few years. Needs a slab of red meat to go with it! Priced at about $24, well worth the price to stash away.

2013 Finca San Blas Vino Dulce, Utiel-Requena, Spain

Grapes varieties: Merseguera 50 % and Chardonnay 50%.

Harvest: by hand in small crates of 10 kg in the first two weeks of December 2013.

Climatology of 2013: this summer was stormy and not very hot. September was cool and rainy, with frequent fogs on the selected plots. Development of abundant botrytis cinerea during October. Natural drying of some grains.

Winemaking and aging: soft pressing for more than 12 h. Natural fermentation, without added yeast or sulfurous, at room temperature (12ºC), in second year oak barrels until the end of September 2014 (= almost 1 year fermenting), until it stops spontaneously. Aging with its own yeast in the oak barrels where it fermented, for 15 more months.

Total production: 800 bottles.

Tasting note of the prestigious British magazine Decanter: “beautifully honeyed and ripe Sauternes-like nose of peach, grape seed, pineapple, passion fruit, saffron, marzipan and tangy marmalade notes. The brilliant jab of wonderfully fresh acidity on the palate cuts through the honey and spice, butterscotch, mango and toffee and leads to a great length.”

Alcohol: 10.5% vol.

A very nice version of a dessert wine – or a “sticky” as the Aussies would say. Sweet, but with well developed flavors and a good finish. Pricey, but most decent dessert wines tend to be - $41 per 500ml.

2017 Domaine-Thevenot-lebrun  Bourgogne Haute Cotes de Nuits, Burgundy, France

It can be aged from 5 to 10 years but can be consumed from now to keep the fruity side.

Les Renardes is a 2.5 ha parcel in Marey les Fussey in the heart of the Hautes Cotes de Nuits region. The slope is steep with a south-west south orientation. The top-soil is very thin what forces the vines roots to get deep in the soil to find water. The vines were planted in 1983.

The fermentation is made by natural yeasts with a maceration of 15 to 20 days. The maturing is made in 1 to 3 years barrels during 12 months.

This wine comes from their Les Renardes vineyard, a 6 acre parcel in the heart of the Hautes Cotes de Nuits region. The slope is steep with a south-west, south orientation. The top-soil is very thin so the mature vines, planted in 1983, have very deep roots. The grapes are fermented with natural yeasts and macerated 15-20 days. It's aged in oak for 12 months.

Tasting Notes

The nose is complex with a mix of fruity, spicy and floral notes. In mouth the first feeling is on the roundness and then the tannins appear to end on a very nice length.

2017 was a very fine vintage that many growers are comparing the outstanding 2002 and this single vineyard Pinot Noir, although leaner and racier than the wines from lower down on the slope, it still shows beautiful cherry and strawberry with herbal hints on the nose and a lovely roundness on the palate with caressing tannins and ripe fruit to balance the mouthwatering acidity.

Until the prices start to catch up to the quality, this is your best opportunity to enjoy red Burgundy with distinct character and complexity that's completely affordable!

A nice affordable bottle of Burgundy – this wine had a nice nose and red fruit in a full mouthfeel. Decent acidity to make a good match with a holiday meal; good sipper as well. Finish was modest, not a lot of  tannin, so drink over the next two years. Gift, but estimated around $20’ish.  A nice Pinot from France.

Well, another month has flown by and Christmas is pressing upon us. Enjoy and be careful - keep popping those corks and I'll meet you out behind the grapevines!