Weeknight Wines

                Doesn’t matter if you call them “bargain” wines, weeknight wines, spaghetti and pizza wines or the stuff you swill after you’ve opened the good bottles at a party, there is always a need for less expensive, yet drinkable wines. I’m talking about wines under about 12 bucks – you know the ones. My friends at Jacob liquor offer a case of wine for $100 bucks each month – red, white or mixed. Not wines you are planning on holding for several years before popping open, ones you even open for the gulping in-laws or guzzling friends.

                I found a brand that I like – simply called Line 39 – a winery that makes wine north of latitude 39 (or is it longitude). This means the north end of Sonoma, Napa, Mendicino and Lake Counties in California.  The average retail is about $10 and I get it for 6 or 7 bucks on sale. They have two whites, but I haven’t been able to try them. They just released a Merlot, it isn’t available here. The main ones I like (and have tried again and again) are the Cabernet Sauvignon and the Petite Sirah. Surprisingly, the got a mid-80 score from the Wine spectator.

                The Cabernet is pretty standard fare, not a long lasting aftertaste, modest fruit – berry and hints of cola and bell pepper, with no tannins. What you want from a pizza wine – straightforward, and in your face. Serve it with grilled meat and no one will complain, except the wine snobs, when they hear the price.

                The Petite Sirah is the real treasure. Now, Bogle makes a good Petite, as well as Concannon. But for an under $10 bottle, you won’t find a better Petite. It is big and jammy, full of unctuous fruit – red and black berries, as well as a touch of tar. No real tannins, but a surprising aftertaste that lingers. I have always thought that this grape is under rated, but the good news is you can try some cheap and enjoy it!

                OK – so here’s my latest report, I’ll try to be back in a week or so with more information and opinions. Meanwhile, keep popping those corks and I’ll meet you behind the grape vines.

A Tale of Two Wines

This is a story about two wines, both purchased at the respective winery in about 2004, on a trip to California Wine country with my brothers.  I purchased a bottle at Heitz Cellars and one at Plumpjack. We tried the cabernet at Plumpjack, it was outstanding.  The other bottle was older and not available for tasting.  Below are the Wine Spectator reviews of each bottle.

PLUMPJACK

Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2001

Score: 93                                          Release Price: $58

Country: California         Region: Napa    Issue: Jun 15, 2004

A rich, elegant, sophisticated style, built around a concentrated core of spicy blackberry, currant and plum flavors that run deep and earthy. This full-blown wine is packed with dense, opulent flavors and a long, lingering aftertaste. Best from 2005 through 2012. 9,000 cases made. –JL

HEITZ

Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Bella Oaks Vineyard 1995

Score: 86                                          Release Price: $45

Country: California         Region: Napa    Issue: Jun 15, 2000

Medium in weight, with pretty black cherry, wild berry and plum notes. Turns elegant, with smooth tannins. Drink now through 2006. 4,529 cases made. –JL

Both bottles were carried back to Wichita and stored together in my wine storage unit (originally a 12 bottle unit, I’ve upgraded to a 36 bottle unit.

I popped open the Heitz over Easter weekend with my brother Tony, this year (2012). It was elegant and well structured with nice black cherry and berry notes. Had a great body and mouthfeel, like it would last another few years in the bottle. Really good – wish I had a couple more bottles.

The Plumpjack was opened over Memorial day, this year(2012) with my Brother J.  It tasted tired and rather simple, the fruit was mild dark berry, with little aftertaste and short mouthfeel. Disappointing to say the least.

I realize that there are bottle variations, but the point is that sometimes a bottle you think will age well, doesn’t always live up to expectations, while others exceed the expert opinions. Not every bottle of red wine gets better after ten years, and some will surprise you.  I’ll talk about aging zinfandel another time – that’s a story in it’s self. Let me know if you’ve had similar experiences.

Winew from the Turn of the Century

The first weekend of April this year did Easter and a little wine tasting in Wichita. My older brother, Tony, sent a few items from his cellar for the folks I know in town to taste and enjoy.  The line up, graciously hosted by John and Jane at their picturesque home, is listed below. My brother and his wife had come to visit from Kingman, Arizona and were in attendance as well.

·         1996 Chateau Lafon-Rochet, St. Estephe, France (Bordeaux)

·         1995 Chateau Lynch Bages, Pauillac, France (Bordeaux)

·         1999 Carruades de Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac, France (Bordeaux)

·         1998 Reserva Seleccion Especial, Rioja, Spain (from my cellar)

·         1998 Del Dotto Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley,  California

·         2000 Swanson Alexis, Napa Valley, California

·         2000 St. Supery Elu Meritage, Napa Valley, California

·         2001 Joseph Phelps Hdr Auction reserve, California (Magnum – from my cellar)

The wines were opened and tried in the order listed above. I played “master of Ceremonies” and chatted about the wines as I poured for the 16 or so guests. Below are my notes, scribbled during tasting and rewritten after the event. I will follow with the Wine spectator ratings and note on the wines that were available on the web site.

1996 Chateau Lafon-Rochet, St. Estephe, France (Bordeaux)

            The wine had a slight brick color, a moderate nose of berry and fruit. In the mouth, it had decent upfront fruit, cassis and blackberry, with a nice backbone to balance. Not an overpowering wine, but nice and at or just beyond its prime.

1995 Chateau Lynch Bages, Pauillac, France (Bordeaux)

            Nice dark color with a nice nose that continued to get better with time in the glass. Hints of graphite with the fruit in the aroma. Good body wine, deep dark fruit including blackberry and plum with an overtone of spices. A wine that could age 5 more years and still be drinking this well.

1999 Carruades de Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac, France (Bordeaux)

            Big, dark color in this wine – the nose jumped right out of this one – with dark fruits and stone (really, like a big smooth type of stone). Big body with enough acid to balance the light remaining tannins and fruit. Dark berry, cassis and hints of vanilla and mocha were the flavor structures, and the wine had a deep lasting aftertaste. A very good bottle of wine.

1998 Reserva Seleccion Especial, Rioja, Spain

            I should never have put a tempranillo right after the best French wine of the evening. It fell flat in comparison, although it still had a decent nose and nice tempranillo flavors with cherry and plum on a slightly dusty flavor profile. Color was slightly brick, not too many years left in the tank for it, but not really a bad wine.

1998 Del Dotto Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California

            The harvest of 1998 in California was plagued by rain and a difficult growing season. Many wineries churned out weak, inconsistent cabernets, sold them off cheap and fast. This wine was an example of a producer trying to make the best possible result form a tough year. Nice color, with only a slight amount of brick. The flavor profile was typical Napa – hints of bell pepper but dark jammy fruits like raspberry and blackberry. Nicely balanced, no tannins left but a moderate aftertaste. Probably as good as it will get.

2000 Swanson Alexis, Napa Valley, California

            Nicely dark in the glass, this wine had dark fruits in the nose with hints of spice in it. The wine is a blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and syrah. The fruits meld well together, with the syrah adding a different dimension, compared to the California cabernets. The dark fruit was fairly bright in the mouth and there was a nice aftertaste. This was a crowd pleaser.

2000 St. Supery Elu Meritage, Napa Valley, California

            This wine had the most sediment of the group. Nice nose but a little subdued didn’t really grow like some of the others. The flavors blended nicely, dark fruits with hints of herbs and spice in a nicely wound package. Not much tannin remains, but the acid kept it balanced. Very nice wine that could still go a few years before petering out.

2001 Joseph Phelps Hdr Auction reserve, California

            Unknown blend, probably cabernet sauvignon and merlot and maybe others. Lighter in color than the other wines, moderate nose of dark fruits, cherry and plum. Flavor profile similar to the nose, nicely balanced with the fruits and maybe some anise. At its peak, extra aging would rob it of the brightness of the fruit. Crowd pleaser for the group.

Wine spectator notes on the following wines.

1996 Chateau Lafon-Rochet, St. Estephe, France (Bordeaux)

Score: 90           Release Price: $30      Country: France            Region: Bordeaux

Blackberry and licorice aromas and flavors. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long finish. Clearly better in 1996 than in 1995.--'95/'96 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2008. –JS Issue: Web Only - 2007

1995 Chateau Lynch Bages, Pauillac, France (Bordeaux)

Score: 94           Release Price: $40      Current Auction Price: $152 Country: France  Region: Bordeaux Issue: Web Only - 2007

A wine that continues to improve with age. Shows loads of ripe plum, almost prune, with hints of vanilla and mineral. Full, chewy and tight. Still needs time.--Lynch-Bages non-blind vertical. Best after 2008.

1999 Carruades de Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac, France (Bordeaux)

Score: 89           Release Price: $31     Current Auction Price: $332   Country: France Region: Bordeaux Issue: Mar 31, 2002

Lovely aromas of sweet, ripe berries with hints of chocolate. Full-bodied, with silky, caressing tannins and a long, fruity aftertaste. Very impressive for a second wine. Best after 2004. 25,000 cases made. –JS

1998 Reserva Seleccion Especial, Rioja, Spain

Score: 88           Release Price: $31      Country: Spain              Issue: Oct 31, 2003

Harmonious, with a nice balance of ripe plum and cherry fruit, spicy oak and maturing notes of leather and game. The tannins are round, the acidity bright. Drink now through 2009. 2,000 cases made. –TM

2000 Swanson Alexis, Napa Valley, California

Score: 90           Release Price: $50      Country: California     Region: Napa Issue: Sep 15, 2003

A stylish wine, with layers of rich currant, blackberry, coffee, toasty oak and spicy anise notes. It firms up midpalate, picking up chewy tannins and a peppery edge. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2009. 4,635 cases made. –JL

2000 St. Supery Elu Meritage, Napa Valley, California

Score: 88           Release Price: $50      Country: California     Region: Napa Issue: Nov 15, 2004

Well-made, firm, intense and concentrated, with smoky currant, anise, sage and cedar notes that are well-proportioned, ending with ripe, integrated tannins and a burst of dark berry fruit. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2010. 2,367 cases made. –JL