First month of 2020

The Wines of January 2020

I hope your New Year and new decade are progressing nicely.  Crazy weather where I am - hot one day then snowy and cold the next. One constant - drinking wine. 

2012 Chateau Ste. Michelle Ethos Reserve Cabernet sauvignon, Columbia Valley, Washington

Chateau Ste. Michelle crafts Ethos Reserve Cabernet to showcase the power and richness of Washington fruit combined with Old World elegance. A majority of the fruit comes from our 40-year-old Cold Creek Vineyard which provides the wine’s power and structure. This is the most complex of our Cabernets and offers layers of ripe blueberry fruit with silky tannins.

Blend: 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot

RP 93 Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

One of the standouts in the lineup is the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Ethos Reserve, which comes from a number of sites in the Columbia valley and incorporates 10% Merlot. Aged in 53% new French and American oak, this full-bodied, rich, unctuously textured and concentrated Cabernet is loaded with notions of currants, blueberries, smoked herbs, and licorice. Possessing low acidity, a plump, sexy profile and no hard edges, it can be enjoyed anytime over the coming decade.

WE 91Wine Enthusiast

Cold Creek Vineyard provides the majority of the fruit for this wine, with the rest coming from the Wahluke Slope. It's immediate in its appeal with aromas of cocoa, dark chocolate and black fruit. The coffee flavors show a mixture of fruit and barrel, with some graininess to the tannins.

WS90Wine Spectator

Chewy, with tannins around a smoky core of blackberry, currant and roast beef. Comes together with intensity on the finish. Best from 2018 through 2022.

This was a gift a couple of years ago from my brother. He indicated it could use some time in the cellar. I opened it just after the Holidays for a nice hearty meal. Wow!  I could have left it for at least 5 more years – the tannins were still evident, although not overpowering the fruit. Delicious dark berry fruits with hints of graphite, dusky herbs and cocoa. A really great wine – prices range in the $40’s for this. I liked it so much I was able to get a 2013 to put in my cellar at around the same price. Great wine.

2017 Ridge Three Valleys, Sonoma County, California

Deep garnet color. Fresh raspberry and cherry fruits, barrel spice, clay minerals, and fresh mint. Sweet red berry fruit entry, medium body, lively acid, and supple tannins. Long, elegant finish.

Blend: 73% Zinfandel, 15% Petite Sirah, 10% Carignane, 2% Grenache

WW 91Wilfred Wong of Wine.com

COMMENTARY: With such a star-studded line up that Ridge Vineyards has with its world of wines, the Three Valleys Red Wine is sometimes overlooked by my wine pals and myself. Fortunately, after tasting the wines over a decade, I have grown to appreciate this wine. The 2017 vintage possesses what it needs, and it belongs in the company of the best. TASTING NOTES: This wine is nicely balanced and pleasingly open-knit. Its aromas and flavors of ripe berries are already showing well. Pair it with a double-thick grilled pork chop. (Tasted: February 27, 2019, San Francisco, CA)

WS91Wine Spectator

Lively and well-built, with expressive cherry, roasted dill and white pepper flavors that glide toward refined tannins. Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Carignane and Grenache.

A close out special at $20, this is typical of the field blends that Ridge is known for. 2% short of Zinfandel to be called that, but a very nice blend with bright red fruits, a nice acidic backbone, hints of tannins and a good finish. I only bought one – what a dope – at this price, buy several and drink over the next year or so.

2017 Petra Zingari Toscana, Tuscany,Italy

#29 Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2019

WS93Wine Spectator

A well of dark cherry, black currant and blackberry fruit makes this red sumptuous and inviting. Fresh earth, thyme and rosemary accents add depth. A mineral element emerges on the long finish. Shows fine balance overall. Merlot, Sangiovese, Petit Verdot and Syrah. Drink now through 2032.

JS93James Suckling

A delicious red that shows red plums, brambleberries, undergrowth, cedar and freshly cut herbs. Medium to full body, delightful, juicy tannins and a tangy, medium-long finish. A blend with equal measures of merlot, sangiovese, syrah and petit verdot. Drink now or hold.

A really nice inexpensive Super-Tuscan. The petite Verdot is an unusual addition but blended nicely.  Nice red fruits with some herb and mineral depth in the mouth. Good finish, nice acidic backbone to be a good food wine. Priced under $20 – possibly as low as $12, a real buy to have on hand.

2014 Sextant Wheelhouse Zinfandel, Paso Robles, Ca

90 POINTS           Wine Enthusiast

Black-cherry fruit is decorated with crushed thyme, dried sage, roasted meat and cinnamon on the nose of this bottling. The palate offers more cherry fruit but also a bit of black-plum-skin tartness, as well as decent amounts of asphalt and turned earth.

Paso Robles, CA- Boysenberries, black pepper and sandalwood take center stage followed by plum and anise. The nose and palate work together flawlessly. The tannins are firm. Vibrant acidity contributes to a lively mouth feel followed by a long finish.

A fun little wine you can get for about $14 (Reg. $24) – it is a nicely textured zinfandel with nice red fruits and hints of earthiness and herbs. Not “spicy”, but well balanced with nice backbone to bear up with meats. Well worth the money.

2016 Vietti “Perbacco” Nebbiolo, Langhe, Italy

93 Robert Parker - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Luca Currado likes to remind me that this wine could qualify as a full-fledged Barolo. Barrels not used in the final Barolo Castiglione blend are used to make the 2016 Langhe Nebbiolo Perbacco. In fact, its very name “Perbacco” translates into a somewhat corny “golly gosh” because that was the reaction Luca’s mom had when she first tasted the wine and was told it was not a Barolo. “Perbacco, it tastes like Barolo,” was her comment—and a legend was born. The Vietti family, along with Bartolo Mascarello and Dott G Cappellano back in the day, had battled for some variation of a Rosso di Barolo in the appellation laws. That never happened, but Langhe Nebbiolo is a concept that follows that same idea: you get great Nebbiolo quality at a fraction of the price. Today, Langhe Nebbiolo is one of the fastest-growing categories in the entire wine region. This beautiful vintage, with its balanced fruit and freshness, is a perfect example.

Description: Offers up generous fruit along with menthol, spices & hard candy, showing notable intensity while retaining an essentially mid-weight style. Strong, intense & powerful when young, complex & elegant with the ageing. Food Pairings: Hearty stew, wild game, roasted red meats & sharp, aged cheeses

Nebbiolo tends to surprise me – it can be a very tannic wine but it is never really deep dark red. The grape of Barolo – one of the pricey and sought after wines from Italy, this wine is a real gem. Ageable in the near term (2 -3 years) it is clean with great red fruit, chalky mineral notes and hints of spice. Nice balance, works well as a food wine with a nice moderate finish. Priced around $25, this is a great wine to impress your friends and enjoy with an Italian repast.

2013 Tolaini “Legit” Cabernet Sauvignon, Toscana, Italy

Wine Spectator 94

This is broad and incisive, delivering black currant, plum, leather, earth and wild herb flavors. Dense and beefy, yet with ample fruit for balance, driven by vibrant acidity. This is starting to mellow but still has years of life ahead. Drink now through 2036"

Rich dark fruit, berry and cassis aromas meld with notable French oak spice. On the palate this is full-bodied with deep but reserved fruit flavors framed by rich oak. The excellent balance of fruit intensity with fine tannins indicates a cellar-worthy wine.

Legit

Legit"Don't play everything, let some things go by. What you don't play can be more important than what you do".

A philosophy of a musician whose enduring legacy continues to inspire listeners, artists and artisans around the world. Music, the language of soul, universally understood and appreciated in spite of borders and barriers. Indeed its rhythm transcends those things and makes our collective hearts to beat as one. We argue that wine has a similar ability. The grapes each a note in a composition written in a universal language. The author, an artisan improvising with practiced deft, not playing everything, letting some things go by. Little wonder then that when Tuscan vintner and international wine importer Lia Tolaini Banville met the grandchildren of the great Thelonious Monk, she was inspired to a collaboration to honor his memory with a singular wine from her family estate - LEGIT.

The picture is of Thelonious Monk – a Jazz legend composer and pianist , not some pop artist. This Cabernet is literally a monster – still tannic, yet carrying dark fruits, herbs and hints of graphite and cedar shavings. It is drinkable with a slab of meat, but needs a number of years in the cellar. A phenomenal wine that runs about $40-44 – a wine this quality is usually more expensive. You could tell your wine friends it cost twice the price and it would be believable. Truly LEGIT.

Well, another month has shot by, hope your New Year is off to a great start. Until next time, keep popping those corks and I’ll meet you out behind the grapevines.

A Post Christmas Special

Some Tasty Wines with Friends

On December 27, 2019 I was invited to my friend Chris Kowalski’s house to drink some nice wines. The party consisted of Chris, myself, Ryan Maderak, Dan Stockemer and Dewey McLaughlin. We had a nice meal and drank 2 vintages of Chateau Pontet-Canet, one a 2000 vintage and a 2005 vintage.

                From here I will let Ryan’s eloquent notes explain the wonderful wines we enjoyed.

I dare say that last night was my wine night of the year. Incredible lineup of wines with a great group of people.

It was a particularly special wine night for me, featuring one of my "cellar babies," the 2000 Pontet-Canet, my longest cellar resident, one of the very first wines I bought when I started collecting 16 years ago, before I really knew much about wine, and certainly didn't know that Bordeaux would be one of my great loves in wine. I was rather shocked to discover that I didn't get a picture of it. How did it turn out? Read on.

Also worth noting that this night continued two peculiar trends that have occurred mostly randomly: Pontet-Canet is the red Bordeaux I've had the most vintages of (1970, 1997, 2000, 2002, 2003, 2005; plus 2000 and 2003 of their second label); and Lafaurie-Peyraguey, which happens to be my favorite Sauternes (d'Yquem is greater, but L-P is still my favorite) is the Sauternes I've had the most vintages of (1988, 1989, 1998, 2003, 2005; plus 2004 of their second label).

Jean Christophe Mandard, Domaine Mandard, Brut, Touraine NV

Light golden. Subtle but lovely and deep nose of rich stone fruits, orange, with loads of cashew, yeast/bread crust, and mineral. Palate: Ripe red apple, apricot, raspberry, orange/lime, some spice, yeast, mineral. Medium-full with stunning mouthfeel, sweet, succulent fruit, lovely finish. Love it! 3.5 Stars [12/26/19]

(*Editors note – the Mandard is actually made from old vine Orbios (also known as Arbios) – a lesser known and less planted grape allowed in the Loire Valley. Known as coarser than other Loire varietals, it usually is a fill-in grape in other wines.)

La Nerthe, Les Cassagnes, Cotes du Rhone 2018

50% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, 20% Cinsault. Lovely medium-light, salmon/pink. Nose: loads of sweet strawberry and watermelon, with hints of cassis and plum, sweet, chocolatey earth, herbs, olives, and stone; an incredible nose for a rose, all of CdP’s depth and character. Palate: raspberry, dark cherry, cassis, plum, tobacco, green olive, cocoa-powder laced earth, and stone, all with orange rind. Medium bodied, captivating texture, sweet and succulent and slightly savory, excellent finish. Extraordinary rose. 3.5+ Stars [12/27/19]

Davis Estates, Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain 2013

Dark garnet. Awesome nose, loads of dark, heady berry fruits, fine cured tobacco, some chocolatey earth, firm stone, and some Pauillac-style graphite and leather. On the palate, incredibly sweet-succulent dark cherry, meaty currant, fresh blackberry, herbaceous tobacco leaf, spice, and firm stone/graphite, with mineral-laden finish, all underlaid by liqueur notes. Full and dense, with sweet-tart, succulent, fleshy ripe but with incredibly elegant balance, all with a fine, lingering note of toasty oak; long, mineral laden, dense, dark, finish. I love the sweet-tart, crunchy fruit. Wow, I am smitten by this. 10 - 15, maybe 20 strong years ahead. 4.5 Stars [12/27/19]

Pontet-Canet, Pauillac 2005

Great color, dark ruby, pink at the rim. Awesome nose with extraordinary depth; ripe, dense, succulent cassis, blackberry, blueberry, cigar tobacco, herbs, and loads of tarry, mineral-laden earth, all underlaid by Pauillac leather and tobacco, and sweet, aromatic roses lingering. Palate: fleshy, succulent, slightly sweet-tart, black cherry, red currant and cassis, blueberry and blackberry, with firm stone/graphite, cured tobacco with some slightly minty/herbaceous notes, all underlaid with liqueur-like notes, and an extraordinary finish of dark berries, spice, and tar, and tannin that with great, satisfying length. Full bodied, fleshy, with racy acid, loads of spicy tannin still. Very youthful structure still. Will benefit from 5 - 10 more years, and last for 20 - 30. Extraordinary and captivating. 4.5 Stars [12/27/19]

Pontet-Canet, Pauillac 2000

Great color, opaque garnet, some bricking at the rim. Phenomenal nose, endless mineral depth, with entrancing cassis, dried blackberry, gorgeous cured tobacco and roses, with incredibly deep tarry earth, endless aromatic depth, absolutely gorgeous; roses, violets, gorgeous, sweet, aromatic red fruit; mint, licorice, dates, prunes, camphor, fire ember; endless, amazing, one of the very greatest Bordeaux noses I’ve experience. Palate: ridiculous, gorgeous, captivating fresh blackberry, cranberry, currants, orange rind, fresh, succulent tobacco leaf, blueberry liqueur, loads of lovely tarry earth and mineral, long, penetrating, expansive finish of sweet red fruits, spice, mineral, dates; dear lord. Full bodied, dense, and potent, with endless finesse; the acid tone and balance are nearly perfection; that incredible combination of tarry earth, tobacco, and sweet red fruit is just unbelievably captivating; fine mineral lingers endlessly on the finish. Just now approaching maturity, 5 - 10 years will be benefit it, and its balance is such that it can age for decades more; it will be teasing us in 50 years; 30 - 40 years ahead. One of the five greatest bottles of Bordeaux I’ve ever had. 5 Stars, and will improve, it may be perfection when fully mature. [12/27/19]

Lafaurie-Peyraguey, Sauternes 2005

Gorgeous color, medium-golden, with touches of orange, but also a hint of green. Absolutely stunning nose, pears and stone fruits and white flowers and stone, endless depth of nectar and nutmeg and allspice and mineral; incredible; hints of raspberry and raspberry leaf; phenomenal Sauternes nose, like a 1er Cru Puligny, the depth and finesse of stone and flowers is dumbfounding. Palate: stunning, fleshy apricot and plum, raspberry, tropical fruits (kiwi, papaya, pineapple), ripe, candied pear, a touch of candied ginger, with gorgeous nutmeg and allspice, and an ethereal, long finish of mineral, nectar, and subtle spice. Full bodied and intense, supreme elegance and finesse, sweet, fleshy, succulent fruit, phenomenal sweet-tart acid balance; ends with a spicy bitterness that throws everything else into glorious relief. Amazing. 10 - 15 years more to full maturity, 30 - 40 years ahead. 5 Stars [12/27/19]

Ferrari-Carano, Baci NV

“Red wine with natural chocolate flavor.” Medium ruby with a touch of purple. Nose: fig, blackberry, blackberry, with coffee and chocolate. Palate: fresh blackberry jam, cassis, coffee, chocolate, all with spirit and mineral; sweet red fruits linger on the mineral, spice, and tannin-laden finish. Extraordinary achievement for this kind of wine. 3.5 Stars [12/27/19]

If I may say, this was an excellent evening, spent with good people, good food and even better wines. Thank you Dr. Maderak for taking wonderful notes to remember this evening. Till next time, keep popping those corks and I'll meet you out behind the grapevines.

The Wines of December 2019

Happy Holidays - December 2019 Wines

The Holidays have come and gone - hope yours was fun. Time keeps moving faster and faster - can't believe it is already 2020! Here are a few of last months wines.

2017 Prieure Saint Come Chablis, France

Slight burnt bronze yellow on the pour, citrus fruit on the nose; pretty acidic and tarty in the mouth with more citrus fruit, green apple, apricot; very crisp and refreshing; clean, no oak influence so the flavor really powers through.

You can pair this wine with just about anything but seafood would be really ideal; scallops, halibut, oysters, anything along those lines would be amazing.  We enjoyed it on its own, outside on a warm August day, and really enjoyed it.

A nice unoaked Chablis with a nice acidic balance to go with many food choices (lighter style – fish, chicken, etc.). Pleasant as a sipping wine – was a gift but price seems to be around $15 – worth drinking at that price.

2016 Columbia Crest Horse Heaven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington

This bold Cabernet opens with flavors of black cherries and blackberries with a touch of currants and vanilla, complemented by earth and mineral notes. Deep berry flavors lead to a soft tannin cocoa finish.

Food Pairings: Pasta Bolognese, Braised Lamb Shank, Beef Pot Roast, Strongly Flavored Cheeses

Critical Acclaim  WS90Wine Spectator

Supple and approachable, with lively black cherry and spiced herb flavors that linger on the finish. Drink now through 2022.

Was an email special at $11 – well worth the $$. Had some tannin in the backbone, so a couple years in bottle won’t hurt it. Drinking nicely now, good black fruits and a nice balance. Good with beef and red sauces. Buy some – it is a nice wine.

2016 Il Bruciato Tenuita Guadi Al Tasso, Bolgheri, Italy

The 2016 Bruciato offers an intense ruby red color. On the nose, the aromas of ripe red berry fruit, sweet spices, and a light and fresh minty note are the most prominent sensations. The palate is well structured, persistent, and very pleasurable in its fruity finish and aftertaste.

Blend: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 15% Syrah

Critical Acclaim

JS94       James Suckling

This second wine shows such a great balance of round tannins and juicy, creamy and chocolate character. Full, flavorful and joyful. Salty and juicy. Savory and even meaty. Drink now or hold.

RP93      Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

This is absolutely one of the best value wines you will find in Italy and I suspect beyond. The 2016 Bolgheri Rosso Il Bruciato is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 15% Syrah. This vintage comes together with seamless intensity and smoothness. You get so much dark fruit flavor, paired with soft tannins, spice, smoke and dried blackberry. Il Bruciato pulls off its magic effortlessly. It doesn't try to be anything other than it is: Delicious. Rating:93+

WS90     Wine Spectator

Cherry jam, blackberry and floral aromas and flavors prevail in this fruity red. Well-structured and balanced, if showing a youthful exuberance. Fine length. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. Best from 2020 through 2028.

This was surprise wine I found at clearance for $20. Regular retail is only $27, but felt like a bargain. A super Tuscan from Antinori in my price range – very nice wine. Had the legs to hold for several years, but is drinking nicely now.  Mostly flavors of dark fruit with hints of chocolate, minerals and hints of earthiness. Moderate finish, a real meaty type wine. Worth the price – grab a bottle or two and hang on to one for a while.

2007 Hafner Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Ca

This red wine was produced by fermenting the juice with the skins to extract their color and flavor. CO2  gas (a by-product of fermentation) bubbled up through the skins causing them to float to the top and form the “cap”. To extract the grapes’ color and flavor, we pumped juice from the bottom of the tank and sprinkled it over the cap throughout fermentation.

Following the Bordeaux tradition of extended maceration, the wine stayed on the skins for another two weeks to soften the young tannins. We then moved the Cabernet into our caves where it was aged in French (80%) and American (20%) oak barrels. During its first Winter, the wine underwent malolactic fermentation which lowered its acidity and added richness. In its second year, this Cabernet was aged in both oak barrels and tanks. After many blending trials, we added 2% Petit Verdot and 5% Malbec to this Cabernet to increase the wine’s depth and richness. It was bottled in August 2009.

At our Annual Vertical Tasting in January 2019, we tasted the 2007 and here are our notes: Lovely. Sweet berries, plums, black cherries, carpaccio and cassis aromas. Soft on the palate with a bright fruit middle. Niçoise olives, bittersweet chocolate, rose petals and sweet vanilla notes add richness and depth.

This was a gift from my brothers cellar – only problem was the cork crumbled while I tried to pull it. Even the Ah-So couldn’t save it so part of the cork went a-swimming. I strained it to drink and the wine is drinking very well. The fruit has held up well, the finish was moderate – most of the tannins have completely mellowed. This small Sonoma winery makes a good product and this is an excellent example of how well their cabernet stands up.

2016 Verdicchio de Castelli de Jesi, Marche, Italy

Bright straw. Lime and green apple on the nose. Then sneaky concentration to the pomaceous orchard fruit and almond flavors. The finish is long, bright and juicy. Lovely entry-level Verdicchio wine. Drinking window: 2018 - 2021."

A nice dry, medium body wine to have with a roasted turkey breast. Price was around $12, served the purpose well. Not overpowering, but nicely fruited with a good acidic balance. For when you need a nice inexpensive white that isn’t Chardonnay.

2017 Vina Cobos Felino Malbec, Mendoza Argentina

Violet red with black tones. An attractive nose with aromas of fresh black fruits and prunes. The palate displays good concentration, balance and sweet yet supple tannins.

Critical Acclaim

JS93       James Suckling

A vivid and linear wine with blackberry and blueberry character. Granite. Medium body, fine tannins and a fresh finish.

RP90      Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

I also tasted the just-bottled 2017 Felino Malbec, of which a whopping 651,000 bottles have been produced. They increased the percentage of French oak and reduced the use of American oak a bit, and the wood seems better integrated, neatly folded into the fruit. It felt a little closed (it was just bottled), and I sensed the difference between the cooler 2016 and the riper 2017, but the wine didn't show any excess and felt very balanced and harmonious. At the same time, they are also changing the image, with a cleaner, easier to read label that also reflects the character of the wine. It has very fine tannins and a great mouthfeel. Amazing quality for the volume. It slowly opened up in the glass and didn't stop to grow. Rating: 90+

A South American wine from Paul Hobbs – I noted it had some tannins, bright red fruits and some spices; a nice lasting finish. A really balanced bottle with great fruit showing in the mouth, without being a fruit bomb.  Very enjoyable wine, retail is around $20, well worth the price.

Well, it's been fun, hope you enjoyed these wines. I've got some more items to post, but seem to be slow getting around. Meanwhile, keep popping those corks and I'll meet you out behind the grapevines.

November 19 Wines

Wines of November 2019

I hope you are not too stuffed from Thanksgiving - here are some wines I've enjoyed.

2015 Feixa Negra, Priorat, Spain

Tasting Notes:  This is 50% Garnacha and 50% Carineña, and thus a classic Priorat blend.  It sees six months in oak barrels.  The color is a dark, ruby red and transparent.  Red and black fruits on the nose, with hints of oak, vanilla and caramel.  On the palate the wine has brisk tannins and good balance.  It is medium+ in body.  Nice structure frames a long finish.  This is a quality wine, and is just short of the big, bold Priorats that would also cost much more.  Here you get all the pieces, albeit in a slightly tamed version.  Still, it is an excellent wine and shows you what Priorat can bring.

A very good wine that I got for about $10. Still had a little tannin so not close to over the hill. Bright fruits, a broad palate and a good finish. Really nice bottle of wine from Priorat that was affordable.

2014 Gravel Bar Alluvial Red Blend, Columbia Valley, Washington

This is a full-bodied red with vibrant flavors of dried cherries, plum, toffee, chocolate and vanilla. The structure is rich, with bold tannins extending the finish.

Pairs well with lamb burgers, beef stew and baked penne with pork ragu.

Blend: 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 10% Malbec, 10% Petit Verdot

VINEYARD NOTES:

For more than twenty centuries, torrential floodwaters from melting ice-age glaciers sculpted eastern

Washington's Columbia Valley, leaving in their wake deep deposits of sandy, rocky, alluvial soils. Today, framing the Columbia River, broad plains of ancient sediment constitutes one of the world's finest wine grape growing regions.

This wine is at its peak about now. Pleasant blend with a broad palate of red fruits. Tannins are mostly gone but a nice moderate finish. I got it for about $10, but worth the $15-18.

2016 Walking Dead Cabernet Sauvignon, California

The Wine:

Don’t let this wine catch you unaware, The Walking Dead Cabernet Sauvignon opens with notes of blackberry with nutmeg and mocha spices. This full-bodied wine reveals flavors of dark cherries and currants which pool on the palate, giving way to notes of mocha and spice. Fine, chocolaty tannins hold the long smooth finish.

Winemaking:

To achieve the rich varietal expression and approachable fruit profile in our Cabernet Sauvignon, we harvested our fruit at the peak of ripeness, followed by frequent pump-overs throughout fermentation. This constant contact between the skins and juice enables maximum flavor extraction from the fruit. We then aged the wine for approximately 11 months in a combination of American and French oak barrels to lend sweet, toasty vanilla tones and build structure.

OK, I got this for under $10 (7.99 maybe). Not the worst wine I’ve had, but it didn’t do a lot for me. Nose was just average, the mouthfeel was a little hollow in the middle palate. Finish was relative short, not much tannin. Drink at your own risk…

2017 Gonzalo de Berceo Tempranillo Blanco, Rioja, Spain

Bright and clear, this wine projects a pale, lemon yellow color and really shines in the glass. Great, expressive aromas of peach, pear & tropical fruits, with nuances of fresh grass, cream & white pepper. This complex nose leads to a fresh, crisp palate, that is suprisingly round as well, with reminiscent ripe & tropical fruits. A gem of a wine.

An elegant, yet lifted aroma of ripe fruits and a touch of organic earth rise from the glass. A touch of spices, cream & vanilla from the oak aging is present as well. The flavor matches, with an elegant, mellow yet fresh and ripe palate. Velvety tannins close out this wine, and enough acidity to provide a well balanced wine.

White Tempranillo was discovered in 1988 – in the mid 2000’s, it was finally approved as a white version of the Spanish red Tempanillo. Only grows in Rioja and often used as blending grape with other white grapes, this is an excellent white wine. Nice acidity for food, good fruits, pear and tropical and nuances of spices. Little pricey, but worth a try at around $26.

2017 Malpie Listan Negro, Canary Islands, Spain

Among the young wine selections, a young and pleasant red. Cherry red with violet tones of great intensity, clean and bright. Aromas of minerals and wild red fruits, balsamic. Great body and volume. The palate is powerful, enveloping, fresh while intense, ripe tannins and long pass.

This is an unusual but very nice wine from the Canary Islands (part of Spain, even though they lie off the coast of Africa). Not a lot of tannin, but nice bright red fruits, acidity for food and a modest yet pleasing finish. Flavor I described as silky yet a hint dusty, like volcanic ash. Runs around $23 – worth a try to say you have had it!

2011 Finca San Blas Labor del Almadeque, Utiel-Requena, Spain

Grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon 50% and Tempranillo 50%.

Vineyard: Tempranillo comes from the plot called «Viña Norte» (5 ha) and Cabernet Sauvignon, from the one named «El Duende» (4 ha). Planting pattern 2800 vines per ha. High density and leaf surface treillis. Clayey-chalky soil.

Winemaking: each grape variety is fermented separately. Maceration for three weeks. Malolactic fermentation in new French oak barrels from the center of France, fine-grained and slightly toasted.

Aging: 16 months in new French oak barrels (fine-grained) from Allier forests (Cabernet Sauvignon) and second-use American oak barrels (Tempranillo).

Tasting notes: opaque cherry red colour. Intense and highly concentrated aromas, ripe black fruit with hints of jam and marmalade, smoky oak, spicy hints of clove and pepper. Strong end, especially liquorice and fennel. The palate is tasty, fleshy, with ripe and very rounded tannins. Nice hints of very well integrated oak, with sweety notes and a spicy and mineral background. Long aftertaste.

I noted this a a big broad shoulder wine – and this is the current release (2011). The tannins are still holding in this wine, with deep dark fruits, a good palate filling flavor and a lengthy finish.  Really good blend that would hold up for several years of aging. Priced at around $23, very nice bottle of wine.

2015 Demencia Taruquin Tinto, Ribera del Duero, Spain

*RATING: 91 Points - The Wine Advocate* More arrogant, independent, very elegant and deep, it is a great expression of an area and an old vineyard that we work organically. With a nose that mixes mint and chalk sensations, the 2015 Taruguin feels quite different from the 2014. The fruit is ripe without excess, the oak is neatly integrated and there is better balance and less rusticity on the palate. There are abundant tannins that are going to require some time in bottle to be rendered invisible. A powerful Tempranillo! Pairs well with the classic, grilled meat dishes of the region. Lamb or beef lead the way, but can also be had with many game dishes, as well as hearty stews and the like. Ribera del Duero D.O.

This wines nose was a little subdues, but the flavors burst on the palate. There are tannins, this wine will age for a number of years. I called it a real big-boy type of wine, approachable but better in a few years. Needs a slab of red meat to go with it! Priced at about $24, well worth the price to stash away.

2013 Finca San Blas Vino Dulce, Utiel-Requena, Spain

Grapes varieties: Merseguera 50 % and Chardonnay 50%.

Harvest: by hand in small crates of 10 kg in the first two weeks of December 2013.

Climatology of 2013: this summer was stormy and not very hot. September was cool and rainy, with frequent fogs on the selected plots. Development of abundant botrytis cinerea during October. Natural drying of some grains.

Winemaking and aging: soft pressing for more than 12 h. Natural fermentation, without added yeast or sulfurous, at room temperature (12ºC), in second year oak barrels until the end of September 2014 (= almost 1 year fermenting), until it stops spontaneously. Aging with its own yeast in the oak barrels where it fermented, for 15 more months.

Total production: 800 bottles.

Tasting note of the prestigious British magazine Decanter: “beautifully honeyed and ripe Sauternes-like nose of peach, grape seed, pineapple, passion fruit, saffron, marzipan and tangy marmalade notes. The brilliant jab of wonderfully fresh acidity on the palate cuts through the honey and spice, butterscotch, mango and toffee and leads to a great length.”

Alcohol: 10.5% vol.

A very nice version of a dessert wine – or a “sticky” as the Aussies would say. Sweet, but with well developed flavors and a good finish. Pricey, but most decent dessert wines tend to be - $41 per 500ml.

2017 Domaine-Thevenot-lebrun  Bourgogne Haute Cotes de Nuits, Burgundy, France

It can be aged from 5 to 10 years but can be consumed from now to keep the fruity side.

Les Renardes is a 2.5 ha parcel in Marey les Fussey in the heart of the Hautes Cotes de Nuits region. The slope is steep with a south-west south orientation. The top-soil is very thin what forces the vines roots to get deep in the soil to find water. The vines were planted in 1983.

The fermentation is made by natural yeasts with a maceration of 15 to 20 days. The maturing is made in 1 to 3 years barrels during 12 months.

This wine comes from their Les Renardes vineyard, a 6 acre parcel in the heart of the Hautes Cotes de Nuits region. The slope is steep with a south-west, south orientation. The top-soil is very thin so the mature vines, planted in 1983, have very deep roots. The grapes are fermented with natural yeasts and macerated 15-20 days. It's aged in oak for 12 months.

Tasting Notes

The nose is complex with a mix of fruity, spicy and floral notes. In mouth the first feeling is on the roundness and then the tannins appear to end on a very nice length.

2017 was a very fine vintage that many growers are comparing the outstanding 2002 and this single vineyard Pinot Noir, although leaner and racier than the wines from lower down on the slope, it still shows beautiful cherry and strawberry with herbal hints on the nose and a lovely roundness on the palate with caressing tannins and ripe fruit to balance the mouthwatering acidity.

Until the prices start to catch up to the quality, this is your best opportunity to enjoy red Burgundy with distinct character and complexity that's completely affordable!

A nice affordable bottle of Burgundy – this wine had a nice nose and red fruit in a full mouthfeel. Decent acidity to make a good match with a holiday meal; good sipper as well. Finish was modest, not a lot of  tannin, so drink over the next two years. Gift, but estimated around $20’ish.  A nice Pinot from France.

Well, another month has flown by and Christmas is pressing upon us. Enjoy and be careful - keep popping those corks and I'll meet you out behind the grapevines!

Wines of October 2019

Scary Good wines for October

First up - your question of the month.

Which of the following Appellations is not in Sonoma County? (In honor of the awful fire that raged through the county this last month)

A. Russian River Valley

B. Anderson Valley

C. Dry Creek Valley

D. Knights Valley

Answer at the Bottom

2017 Bodega Ponce Depaula Monastrell, Castilla, Spain

Wine Advocate 93

“This is very elegant, floral, fresh and mineral, a lot more serious than the price suggests. It’s harmonious, with very fine, chalky tannins and feels very much like a $40 bottle of red. Grab it!”

Depaula is fresh and mineral, with profound aromas, ripe red fruit, toasty notes, caramel and sweetish touches, as well as hints of gunpowder. Once poured into the glass it's lusciously sweet on the nose, and reveals the Monastrell's energetic character on swirling it around. On the palate it gives the feeling of a complete wine, with chewy fruit, and it has that rustic element typical of the variety, yet still very polished. Remarkably complex for a wine at this price, a rounded wine that leaves a most pleasant sensation at the end, a merit justly attributed to its producer of course.

Don't be misled by its price, as you can decant it! This is a wine with plenty of vitality and sinew, especially when it's young, and it will benefit from a good decanting.

Colour: Picota cherry red / violet rim / quite opaque / bright / clean

Bouquet: Highly aromatic / fruit aromas / red fruit / aniseed aromas / spicy notes / vegetal notes / toasted bread / candy sweets / toffee / floral scents

Palate: Flavoursome / good entry / fresh / good acidity / voluminous / fruit notes / herbaceous notes / toffee / marked tannins / long finish

This was a good full-bodied wine, with dark fruit flavors and some spice in the taste. Moderate length of finish, some tannin, but not too much. Available for under $15, buy several bottles of this one.

2017 Lang & Reed Chenin Blanc, Mendocino, California

92 Points Wine Enthusiast

This medium-bodied wine offers depth and complexity that are unusual for the varietal in California. It has lightly earthy, mineral, figgy aromas, a palate-coating texture and layers of flavor that unfold from apple to almond to fig, giving it the substance to be a main-course wine, not just a pre-dinner beverage.

I’m a fan of good Chenin Blanc and this one qualifies. Good depth of flavor with good minerality – acidity and body to hold up well with a meal. Available for around $15 on close-out, you should try this wine. There are not many vines left of this grape, so enjoy the good ones.

2014 Leeuwin Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Prelude Vineyard, Margaret River, Australia

92 Points Wine Enthusiast

Leeuwin's characteristic elegance and approachability, combined with ageability, are in full force here. Trademark pencil lead, eucalyptus and red currant characters mingle with dried flowers, herbs and furniture polish. The tannins are dusty and tight-grained, with an herbaceous currant flavor continuing throughout. Drink now–2032.

92 points James Halliday

 This is very good Cabernet, medium-bodied and extracted with a judicious feel for varietal personality: currant and a verdant lift, underlain with black olive and bay leaf skirting across cabernet’s tannic fiber. This is massaged to the tune of mid-term drinkability, without sacrificing the wine’s structural mettle.  

Very nice Aussie Cab – not too much of a fruit bomb – with integrated red fruit, pencil, cigar box and light tannins woven into the flavor and finish. Runs about $30 – I got it for $15 on close out. Should have bought several more and drank over the next 4 years.

2017 Milbrandt Estates Viognier, Wahluke Slope, WA

Aromas of creamsicle, ripe peach, crayon and flower lead to quite ripe, full-bodied stone fruit flavors. It runs warm.

Blend: 85.9% Viognier, 6.9% Chardonnay, 5% Grenache Blanc, 1.4% Piquepoul, 0.8% Clairette

Expressing pure, nearly textbook flavors of white lily, orange blossom, and apricot, this wine is lush in body with concentrated notes of jasmine and white peach. A minerality reminiscent of wet stone balances the floral bouquet, finishing quite clean.

This wine has a higher alcohol content than most of this grape. Nice body with that minerality edge to it. Short finish, but a pretty good sipping wine.  Usually about $26, can be found around $20-22.

2017 CasaSmith “Cervo” Barbera, Wahluke Slope, WA

93 points Jeb Dunnuck: "[$25 list] One of the best expressions of this variety outside of Italy must be the 2017 Barbera Cervo from Charles Smith. Its vibrant purple/ruby color is followed by a fresh, complex bouquet of blue and black fruits, leafy herbs, vanilla, and spice. It’s terrific on the palate as well, offering medium to full body, tons of fruit, and remarkable purity. Drink it any time over the coming 4-5 years. (4/11/19)"

Producer notes: "100% Barbera. Fresh, round and subtle. Raspberry, stone, tobacco and a true sense of place are my first thoughts. Expansive palate with ever-expanding complexities. Fill a glass and let the secrets unfold."

I will admit, I am not a big Barbera fan, even from Italy. For me, the flavors always seem s little flat. Red fruits with some herbs- nicely made wine but not my choice. Runs $24 but can be had for under $20.

2016 Voix de la Vigne Cabernet Franc, Red Mountain, WA

100% Bel’ Villa Vineyard                                100% Cabernet Franc

Aged for 20 months in 2 year old French oak barrels Alcohol 13.9 pH, 4.08 TA

Nice dark, late summer strawberry, cocoa, dried thyme and basil, with a touch of graphite. There is a colorful mix of dried, savory herbs in this wine that pairs beautifully with the fruit. Undertones of cocoa, just a hint of coffee and earthiness really create a lovely blend of aromatics in the classic, yet somewhat bold Cabernet Franc. The bright entry mixes well with the slightly creamy berry mid-palate. The finish is lengthy with fine tannin and flavors of thyme, mocha and just a touch of spice and earth. I love this Cabernet Franc because it shows respect and restraint. It’s a classic, with a bit of a new world twist.

This is a well made Cabernet Franc – the flavors do have a lot of undertones – cocoa, coffee, dried fruit to go with the Red berry flavors. Keeps expanding as it opens up. Very good with a meal – runs about $40, but can be found for $30. Could age several years…

2015 Avennia Gravura Red Wine, Columbia Valley, WA

RP 93      Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The entry-level Bordeaux blend is the 2015 Gravura, and in 2015 it’s a rough mix of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot and the balance Cabernet Franc. It’s a terrific wine, as well as a year in year out great value. The 2015 offers classic notes of blackcurrants, tobacco leaf and violets in a rich, pure, charming and classy style. It has ripe tannin and outstanding purity, and I’m sure it will drink nicely right out of the gate.

The 2015 Gravura is the most hedonistic yet, with aromas of black cherry coulis, red currants, chocolate truffle, violets, and a hint of leather. Rich and palate-coating mouthfeel with dark red and black berries, mocha, and toasted hazelnuts. There is a nice streak of acidity on palate to lift the large-scaled fruit and structure. This wine is tasting great already, but will age 5-8 years at least.

Blend: 13% Bacchus Vineyard Cab, 15% Dionysus Vineyard Cab,18% Red Willow Cab, 21% Red Willow Merlot, 12% Boushey Merlot, 15% Klipsun Merlot, 3% Bacchus Cab Franc, 4% Champoux Cab Franc

This is an excellent blend – a full nose of fruits and flavors of red and black fruits with some pencil shavings, mocha and herbs. A moderate finish with polished tannins – this was great with a meal. Priced around $40, can probably be gotten around $30. This is age-worthy – 5 years easy.

2016 Requiem Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, WA

Grapes were harvested in the later half of September at between 24 and 27 brix, depending on elevation. The grapes were gently pressed into a combination of open top wood and stainless steel fermenters, ranging from 2 to 5 tons in capacity. After a 3 day cold soak, native yeasts were allowed to begin fermentation, which lasted for 18 to 32 days depending on the tank. Once dry, all the wine was racked in to 225L barrels from Taransaud (15%), François Frères (30%), Darnajou (25%) and Saury (30%) for 24 months - 40% new oak.

This very distinguished, super stylish Cabernet Sauvignon was grown biodynamically in Washington's Columbia Valley. Densely layered and quite substantial in the mouth, this bottling delivers generous blackberry and black currant fruit, wrapped around a vibrant core of acidity which keeps the wine pert and lively on the palate. The fruit for this bottling was sourced from 4 vineyard sites in Walla Walla and Horse Heaven Hills.

Very pleasant wine with typical Cabernet Sauvignon fruits, if not a little understated. Flavors come off a little “dusty” but still is a good bottle of juice. Went well with a meal. Priced around $25 – available around $20. Could age a few years

Question answer:

B. Anderson Valley is in Mendocino County, North of Sonoma.

Another month - hope you are all keeping safe from the goblins. Keep popping those corks and I'll meet you out behind the grapevines.

Wines of September 2019

Another month of wines

Just a few wines to look at this month. But first, a wine question.

Which of the following important rivers run through the Rioja Region of Spain?

a. The Duero River

b. The Rio Oja

c. The Ebro River

d. The Guadalquivir River

Answer at the bottom of the post.

2016 Castello Trebbio Chianti Superiore, Tuscany,Italy

89 Points Wine Enthusiast

This opens with nutmeg, ripe berry and earthy underbrush aromas. The savory, accessible palate offers dried black cherry and white pepper flavors alongside polished tannins. Drink through 2021.

Imported to the U.S. by Sonoma’s Cline family, Castello Trebbio is the center of a 350-hectare, organic winemaking operation that includes this Chianti Superiore. Soft for Chianti, the wine offers a significant graphite note, atop a dark but quite dry cherry base. Slightly tart, with notes of black pepper and some vague, dried spice notes, it’s a perfectly approachable table wine for pizza night.

85% sangiovese and 15% a blend of canaiolo and cliegiolo.

A special from Matt – around $10, this Chianti was good with a number of dishes. Modest nose, somewhat soft but decent fruit carried through to a modest finish. Great “School-nite” wine.

2016 Patton Valley Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon

2016 was a warm and steady year, with even and predictable ripening. The growing season started early without any hiccoughs and skipped along to the finish line like a champ. The third of three warm and easy vintages in a row, expect balanced wines with finesse at a young age. A small amount of the wine was allowed to ferment whole cluster to balance the wine with a degree of wildness and structure.

Bright and lively on the nose, the wine has a driving, broad, and pleasant structure with red fruit for days such as Rainier cherry, strawberry, and goji berry. Spice and tannin are understated but present throughout, and the wine has a dynamic, lush, and inviting mouth feel.

A close out available for around $15, this is a nice smooth Pinot, perfect for fall weather.  Nice red fruit nose with cherry and red fruit overtones. Full mouthfeel with  a modest finish; tannins are very light. Great for a lot of dishes, worth this price.

2018 Fulcrum Dry Rose, Napa Valley, California

Vineyard Notes                                Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot from St. Helena

Production Notes            Stainless steel and neutral oak aging

Deep pink color.  Aromas of strawberry jam, melon, honeysuckle, and stone fruit.  Rich flavors of ripe watermelon, strawberries and cream.  Complemented by a silky texture.

This is priced around $15 – a slightly deeper Rose with a strawberry nose and a berry, melon mouthfeel. Nicely textured, modest finish – this reminds me of a pink wine for red wine folks.  Pretty good…

2013 Anatomy No. 1 (Hesparian) Caberenet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Ca

Since purchasing a vineyard on Atlas Peak in 2010 I can now farm the vineyard entirely to my discretion which means that I farm for quality and not for quantity. Anatomy No 1 stared because I wanted to make a more affordable Napa Cabernet Sauvignon so that more people could taste the good wines we make.

Aging: French oak barrels M+ and Medium long toast 15 months in barrel. Unfined but sterile filtered.

Varietal Blend: 89% cabernet Sauvignon + 7% Merlot + 4% Syrah

Sub AVAs: 44% Rutherford, 21% Coombsville, 11% Atlas Peak, 8.6% Sonoma county, 7.1% Yountville, 4.1% Sonoma Mountain, 4.2% Saint Helena

French winemaker Philippe Langner brings a touch of Bordeaux to Napa for a more restrained though still very engaging style of Cabernet. The nose opens with nicely ripe black fruits – think blackcurrant, blackberry, and black cherry – plus a subtly oaky nose of smoke, black pepper, and cloves. Bright, refreshing acidity on the palate adds to the overall approachability. Great everyday drinking Napa Cab.

This cab can be gotten for around $20 to $25  – this winery suffered some damage from the Napa fires. Normally, they sell for almost double. I noted the wine was fairlysoft for a Napa Cab – had some tannins and modest red and black fruit. The finish was medium length; a wine worth drinking at this price.

2015 Ashes & Diamonds Cabernet Franc No. 2, Napa Valley, Ca

Founded by Kashy Khaledi, Ashes & Diamond is a project build on collaboration, highlighting the region’s most influential voices. This savory and balanced Cabernet Franc was made by Steve Matthiasson, with fruit sourced from select growing sites in the southern part of Napa Valley. Powerful yet sophisticated, the wine shows flavors of juicy plums, blackberries, and red fruit marked by graphite and mocha undertones. Aged 20 months in oak.

Kashy Khaledi is the son of the owner of Darioush Winery- he set off to make a Milliniels paradise. This wine is a very good example of Cabernet Franc with a dark berry nose, dark fruit and hints of floral followed by pencil lead and cigar box undertones. Had a very long finish with integrated tannins. Very nice wine, but it sells for $75, a bit out of my normal price range. Buy it if you get a good deal…

2014 Blackbird Vineyards Arise Red, Napa Valley, Ca

92 points Wine Enthusiast

  This blends 38% Merlot with 32% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Cabernet Franc. Together these find a healthy companionship of wood, cedar, currant and dried herb, allowing the two Cabernets to speak loudest. Lightly spicy nutmeg and clove linger around well-defined layers of cherry and vanilla. (VB)   (3/2017)

91 points James Suckling

  Aromas of plums, earth and spices follow through to a full body and tight and firm tannins. Structured and powerful. Needs a few years to soften. Better in 2020.   (1/2017)

38% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc. Winemaker's Notes: "The 2014 Arise entices with aromas of black currant, freshly-picked summer blackberries, cedar stick, and roasted clove. With flavors of licorice, pipe tobacco, Bing cherry, and nutty fig, this wine has a richly layered mid-palate that is complimented by soft texture, good density, and a long, lingering finish. Each wine in the portfolio is a true example of Blackbird’s ongoing commitment to quality by partnering with a selection of Napa Valley’s most prestigious vineyards. Fruit comes from: Blackbird Vineyard, Hudson Vineyard, Stagecoach Vineyard and Crocker & Starr Vineyard."

A really nice blendwith a nose of dark fruits and spices. Red fruits come out on the palate, along with spices and dried herbs, tobacco and mocha. This wine still has a fairly tannic grip, but is drinkable now. The finish as long and stays with you – a really well made wine. Normally found for $50 – look around and you might find it for $40. Great wine.

That’s all this month – I spent a weekend in Napa that I will tell you about later. Until next time, keep popping those corks and I’ll meet you out behind the grapevines.

Answer to Question: c. The Ebro river - Rioja spreads out for 75 miles along this river in northeastern Spain.