Wine Tasting Vincent Arroyo Petite Sirah

 I was invited on December 21, 2011 to my friend Chris (Anton) Kowalski’s house, along with Joe McLeland and his wife and his friend Ryan Maderak.  Ryan recently defended his Doctorate dissertation in Astronomy at the University of Indiana in Bloomington.  Drinking four bottling from the 2004 vintage, we had a hedonistic, teeth staining evening of splendid wines.

I was the only “Vincent” virgin, as Ryan had a small collection of bottles given b to him by his faculty advisor, who could afford a lot of wine and liked to share with a young enthusiast.  Joe and his wife had visited the winery several years ago and have purchased a case or so every year via the email list.  Chris has snagged bottles from the McClelland’s cellar almost every time he has been to their house.

Vincent Arroyo is not available retail, only through the winery and the mailing list.  The signature wine is Petite Sirah, although they also make Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese, Zinfandel and several red blends.  Often the Petite Sirah will sell out by the time they are bottled.  The family winery produces about 8,000 cases of wine each year. 

Following are the four wines and the tasting notes.  There was the regular bottling, two vineyard specific bottles and the Winemaker’s Reserve.  The last three numbered under five hundred bottles produced.  Prices are for current release of these wines. See VincentArroyo.com for details.

1)      2004 Vincent Arroyo Petite Sirah (Regular Bottling), Calistoga, Napa

Current Price: About $32

            The wine has beautiful dark edges and deep purple hues throughout the glass.  The nose has broad dark berry fruit, but not in the fruit forward way of typical California sirah’s.  Somewhat restrained, yet holding a layer of spice, hints of orange peel and a touch of floral, mostly roses.  The mouthfeel is deeply concentrated, delivering much of what the nose promised. Very dark berry flavors, touches of leather and graphite in a nicely knitted package. The finish was long, with a berry tang that lasted for minutes. The bottle has a nice acid backbone, not overtly tannic, but a wine that would hold up for several years of aging. A great match for any big meat dish, like grilled steak and mushrooms.

2)      2004 Vincent Arroyo Greenwood Ranch Petite Sirah, Calistoga, Napa

Current Price: about $45

            Another dark purple hued wine, maybe a little lighter on the edges then the other bottle.  The nose has dark fruit, more spice layers in a broad tone. It opened more as it set in the glass, and it added hints of “forest floor” – an earthiness that is appealing.  The mouthfeel is broad with dark berry, leather and spices, There is another level of currants as it opens. Wine is still constrained and concentrated, with an after taste that lingers for minutes.  With a backbone like this, the wine should be cellared for about three years and kept up for about 10 years.  Another wine to match with hardy fare – grilled items and such.

3)      2004 Vincent Arroyo Petite Sirah Rattlesnake Acres, Calistoga, Napa

Current Price: about $50

            The dark purple goes throughout the wine, even on the edges. I mention this because it is the 2004 and this is 2011 – a 7 year old wine that shows virtually no signs of aging or getting old.  The nose is restrained with dark berry fruit, graphite and a thin layer of spice.  As the wine opens with time, the fruit still stays laid back but hints of floral peek out, though more like lilac than rose.  The mouthfeel is dark berry with hints of eastern spices and leather. AS it opens in the glass, there is a hint of iron “file”ings instead of leather. The berry finish is very long lasting.  The wine seems still closed after time in the glass.  Suggested cellaring is easily five years and you could go ten to fifteen without losing much in this bottle.

4)      2004 Vincent Arroyo Petite Sirah Winemaker’s Reserve Napa

Current Price: about $45

            The color is dark purple hued throughout the glass. A somewhat inhibited nose, but dark berry, leather and a hint of floaral, more lavender than rose. There is less spice undertone than the other bottling.  The mouthfeel is deep, but almost hot in a way. While the dark berry flavors lead, there is more earthiness in this bottle. A slightly higher alcohol level creates the “hot” flavor that adds to the berry.  This being a blend, it is different from the regular bottling and the single vineyard bottles.  The “terrior” comes through in the other bottling, while this mixture makes it a little more convoluted.  This being said, it is still an outstanding bottle of Petite Sirah, just different from the others.  Same great length of after taste, ability to go with big meat and ability to age for six to ten years.

How about some Zinfandel?

Time to talk about some Zinfandel – one of my favorite wines.
This was an average bottle of zin, decent nose, good red fruits and spiciness, moderate aftertaste. OK for the price, like $12, but not one you’d seek out for a special occasion.

Here is another from Coppola, one named after an uncle or something. Better class of zinfandel, but the 2007 was near the end of its best days. It had a limited nose, but a good palate of red and dark berry flavor. Decent aftertaste, but it was on sale for $17, so a bit pricey for what it was.

This was a surprise for $16 – Primitivo is the same basic grape as Zinfandel, but usually is grown in Italy.  This wine has a nice nose of red fruit and good red berry and spice in the mouth. It was restrained, lower in alcohol and better balanced in acid then many Lodi Zinfandels. It would be a good match with food, since it is better balanced then other Zinfandels.

Just wanted to update some info - maybe another time we can talk about the Zinfandel Olympics - looking for a new place to hold them this year!

Keep popping those corks and I'll meet you out behind the grapevines!

Books and more books

I went on a little vacation trip to Kansas City and scored some “new” wine books for my collection. If I can’t be drinking wine, then I’ll gladly read about it. I nabbed Adventures on the Wine Route by Kermit Lynch for $8. Oh, it’s a signed copy (to a doctor) and had his business card in it, with both the Berkley address and the France address. I scored a gently used copy of 1,001 Wines you must taste before you die, although I’ll be lucky to taste 100 of them.  I also got Penfolds, the Rewards of Patience, the history of the Australian winery and Bordeaux/Burgundy, a Vintage Rivalry, a story of the history between these famous French viticulture areas.

This adds to my 40 or 50 wine books, including Matt Kramer on Wine, which I also bought and finished recently. This excludes my cookbooks, because that is a different category. I’ve also suffered with a brief encounter with an upper respiratory affliction, and that limited me tasting anything. The coughing left me weak and the stuff in my nose stopped smelling. I’m on the mend and will post some tasting notes shortly, along with a brief discussion about what an AVA is. Later … Meanwhile, keep popping those corks and I’ll meet you behind the grape vines.

Justin Night at WWWC

Tuesday night, July 10, 2012, was Justin night at the West Wichita Wine Connection (WWWC).  Michael Garcia, representing Justin was our guest speaker for the evening.  Our meal was started with a splendid Moroccan salad, with artichoke hearts and chick-peas marinated in olive oil and spices.  Forget about problems matching artichoke with wine, both the white and the syrah went well with the salad. The entrée was a Moroccan beef dish, with carrots, summer squash, onions and couscous. Dessert was a jipna with teen, which is a cheese type confection with a fig sauce (the “teen”).  Now for the wine!

The greeting wine was a 2011 Justin Sauvignon Blanc. The fruit was from Preston Vineyards, near the Templeton gap in Paso Robles, California. There was a lot of grapefruit, some tropical flavors and a tang on the aftertaste. No wood or oak flavors, as it is kept in stainless steel.

The four table wines started with the 2009 Justin Syrah, the Rhone Ranger entry from the winery. Grapes are sourced from Hastings Ranch, with a production of around 3,900 cases. The aroma is not overly forward, some oak and berry fruit. Hint of earth on the initial taste, nice fruit carry through – red berries at the front. Good mouthfeel and lasting aftertaste - very good with the meal.

Second was the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles, the regular bottling. Nice nose with red and blackberry fruit. Flavor was deep with black and red berry fruit – hint of green pepper and smoky spice in the aftertaste. Aftertaste lingered, very nice California cabernet for a decent price. (I have at least one bottle of the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon in my wine vault.)

Third wine was the 2009 Justification, a real surprising wine. Made of Cabernet Franc and Merlot (not a common blend, by any stretch of the imagination) the color was dark. Big berry nose grabbed you at the first sniff. Great raspberry and blackberry flavors with some plum and hints of spice, follow through with a long aftertaste. Really nice bottle of wine, one I would recommend for a different bottle.

Lastly, though not in flavor, was the 2008 Isoceles, one of the top wines of the vineyard. Always a great wine (I’ve had at least 4 different vintages), this bottle was typical of the class. Great berry nose, some oak lurking in the aroma. Broad mouthfeel, with red and black berry fruit with hints of cedar spice box. Easily a bottle that could age well, but is drinking very nice at this time. Less fruit forward than the Justification, but a wine that would stand to a test of time.

Actually, lastly was the fortified wine, Obtuse, a cabernet sauvignon pert style wine poured for dessert. A sweet wine, with some depth, but not like a typical Port. Very grapey, but a pleasant little item to end a meal.

All 58 folks in attendance enjoyed themselves - meanwhile, keep popping those corks and I’ll meet you behind the grape vines.

A Case for “Petite”

            There is a red that I just love to drink. It is almost always big, chewy and something you don’t worry about aging. No, not Zinfandel, the Petite one – Petite Sirah. Once a mystery grape, it has been genetically mapped to be a descendent of Syrah, where once it was considered to be an entirely different variety.  It turns out that Petite Sirah (also spelled with the y in place of the i – syrah) is a cross of Syrah and Peloursin and is known as Durif. The grape variety doesn’t do all that well in areas of high humidity where it develops grey rot. California has many growing areas that suit the growth of this variety.

            For a long time in California viticulture, the Petite grape was just labeled syrah. There are obvious differences, but no one ever worried about it.  Many were replanted over time, but it seems many may have been a blend of both grapes. Testing from the good people at UC-Davis found many vineyards thought to be Petite Sirah were mostly Durif, some Syrah and even one a type of Pinot Noir.  From the samples Dr. Carole Meredith – who also identified from the DNA the origin of zinfandel – that the Durif was a child of Syrah and therefore, related.

            Can I tell in a blind tasting which is syrah and which is Petite Sirah? I’m doubtful, although I really, really like my Petite to be as chunky and fruit forward as possible. I recently tasted a Rosenblum San Francisco Bay area Petite Sirah and it was outstanding. The color was deep and dark purple. The nose was raspberry and a touch of blackberry. The flavor had overtones of blueberry and had a wonderful “mouthfeel” that stayed with you.

            There are a couple of value priced Petite’s that you can count on for value and flavor. First is the Bogle Petite Syrah – year in and year out a best buy in the big glossy wine mag’s. It has risen to about $12 to $14 a bottle, but consistently good. The area that Bogle makes the wine is in Solano County, near Clarksburg. Worth asking for at your retailer.

Concannon is another vineyard that has started produced the variety for years and has one that is affordable and very big and chunky. Same price range, it has a silver label. They also make higher priced ones of the same variety, but if your just trying, go for the one I mentioned. This winery claims to be the first to put out a wine labeled Petite Sirah in California and has a rich history. They are across the bay from San Francisco in Livermore Valley. If you like the bottom of the line, then try the higher priced ones. Line 39 is another inexpensive favorite to try, I wrote about it recently.

The higher end petite’s are also tasty, though when I say higher end, I mean bottles in the $30 - $45 range. One such wine, available only from the winery is Vincent Arroyo, in Napa. I had an experience of tasting four different bottling (different vineyards and a reserve) of the 2004 vintage in December of 2011. These are wines that will stand up to bottle aging and provide the gutsy taste you really look for in this grape. I’ll detail that tasting later.

Any way, there is my case for Petite.  Let me know what you think at Drwineaux@gmail.com. Meanwhile, keep popping those corks and I’ll meet you behind the grape vines.

Weeknight Wines

                Doesn’t matter if you call them “bargain” wines, weeknight wines, spaghetti and pizza wines or the stuff you swill after you’ve opened the good bottles at a party, there is always a need for less expensive, yet drinkable wines. I’m talking about wines under about 12 bucks – you know the ones. My friends at Jacob liquor offer a case of wine for $100 bucks each month – red, white or mixed. Not wines you are planning on holding for several years before popping open, ones you even open for the gulping in-laws or guzzling friends.

                I found a brand that I like – simply called Line 39 – a winery that makes wine north of latitude 39 (or is it longitude). This means the north end of Sonoma, Napa, Mendicino and Lake Counties in California.  The average retail is about $10 and I get it for 6 or 7 bucks on sale. They have two whites, but I haven’t been able to try them. They just released a Merlot, it isn’t available here. The main ones I like (and have tried again and again) are the Cabernet Sauvignon and the Petite Sirah. Surprisingly, the got a mid-80 score from the Wine spectator.

                The Cabernet is pretty standard fare, not a long lasting aftertaste, modest fruit – berry and hints of cola and bell pepper, with no tannins. What you want from a pizza wine – straightforward, and in your face. Serve it with grilled meat and no one will complain, except the wine snobs, when they hear the price.

                The Petite Sirah is the real treasure. Now, Bogle makes a good Petite, as well as Concannon. But for an under $10 bottle, you won’t find a better Petite. It is big and jammy, full of unctuous fruit – red and black berries, as well as a touch of tar. No real tannins, but a surprising aftertaste that lingers. I have always thought that this grape is under rated, but the good news is you can try some cheap and enjoy it!

                OK – so here’s my latest report, I’ll try to be back in a week or so with more information and opinions. Meanwhile, keep popping those corks and I’ll meet you behind the grape vines.

A Tale of Two Wines

This is a story about two wines, both purchased at the respective winery in about 2004, on a trip to California Wine country with my brothers.  I purchased a bottle at Heitz Cellars and one at Plumpjack. We tried the cabernet at Plumpjack, it was outstanding.  The other bottle was older and not available for tasting.  Below are the Wine Spectator reviews of each bottle.

PLUMPJACK

Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2001

Score: 93                                          Release Price: $58

Country: California         Region: Napa    Issue: Jun 15, 2004

A rich, elegant, sophisticated style, built around a concentrated core of spicy blackberry, currant and plum flavors that run deep and earthy. This full-blown wine is packed with dense, opulent flavors and a long, lingering aftertaste. Best from 2005 through 2012. 9,000 cases made. –JL

HEITZ

Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Bella Oaks Vineyard 1995

Score: 86                                          Release Price: $45

Country: California         Region: Napa    Issue: Jun 15, 2000

Medium in weight, with pretty black cherry, wild berry and plum notes. Turns elegant, with smooth tannins. Drink now through 2006. 4,529 cases made. –JL

Both bottles were carried back to Wichita and stored together in my wine storage unit (originally a 12 bottle unit, I’ve upgraded to a 36 bottle unit.

I popped open the Heitz over Easter weekend with my brother Tony, this year (2012). It was elegant and well structured with nice black cherry and berry notes. Had a great body and mouthfeel, like it would last another few years in the bottle. Really good – wish I had a couple more bottles.

The Plumpjack was opened over Memorial day, this year(2012) with my Brother J.  It tasted tired and rather simple, the fruit was mild dark berry, with little aftertaste and short mouthfeel. Disappointing to say the least.

I realize that there are bottle variations, but the point is that sometimes a bottle you think will age well, doesn’t always live up to expectations, while others exceed the expert opinions. Not every bottle of red wine gets better after ten years, and some will surprise you.  I’ll talk about aging zinfandel another time – that’s a story in it’s self. Let me know if you’ve had similar experiences.