A Post Christmas Special

Some Tasty Wines with Friends

On December 27, 2019 I was invited to my friend Chris Kowalski’s house to drink some nice wines. The party consisted of Chris, myself, Ryan Maderak, Dan Stockemer and Dewey McLaughlin. We had a nice meal and drank 2 vintages of Chateau Pontet-Canet, one a 2000 vintage and a 2005 vintage.

                From here I will let Ryan’s eloquent notes explain the wonderful wines we enjoyed.

I dare say that last night was my wine night of the year. Incredible lineup of wines with a great group of people.

It was a particularly special wine night for me, featuring one of my "cellar babies," the 2000 Pontet-Canet, my longest cellar resident, one of the very first wines I bought when I started collecting 16 years ago, before I really knew much about wine, and certainly didn't know that Bordeaux would be one of my great loves in wine. I was rather shocked to discover that I didn't get a picture of it. How did it turn out? Read on.

Also worth noting that this night continued two peculiar trends that have occurred mostly randomly: Pontet-Canet is the red Bordeaux I've had the most vintages of (1970, 1997, 2000, 2002, 2003, 2005; plus 2000 and 2003 of their second label); and Lafaurie-Peyraguey, which happens to be my favorite Sauternes (d'Yquem is greater, but L-P is still my favorite) is the Sauternes I've had the most vintages of (1988, 1989, 1998, 2003, 2005; plus 2004 of their second label).

Jean Christophe Mandard, Domaine Mandard, Brut, Touraine NV

Light golden. Subtle but lovely and deep nose of rich stone fruits, orange, with loads of cashew, yeast/bread crust, and mineral. Palate: Ripe red apple, apricot, raspberry, orange/lime, some spice, yeast, mineral. Medium-full with stunning mouthfeel, sweet, succulent fruit, lovely finish. Love it! 3.5 Stars [12/26/19]

(*Editors note – the Mandard is actually made from old vine Orbios (also known as Arbios) – a lesser known and less planted grape allowed in the Loire Valley. Known as coarser than other Loire varietals, it usually is a fill-in grape in other wines.)

La Nerthe, Les Cassagnes, Cotes du Rhone 2018

50% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, 20% Cinsault. Lovely medium-light, salmon/pink. Nose: loads of sweet strawberry and watermelon, with hints of cassis and plum, sweet, chocolatey earth, herbs, olives, and stone; an incredible nose for a rose, all of CdP’s depth and character. Palate: raspberry, dark cherry, cassis, plum, tobacco, green olive, cocoa-powder laced earth, and stone, all with orange rind. Medium bodied, captivating texture, sweet and succulent and slightly savory, excellent finish. Extraordinary rose. 3.5+ Stars [12/27/19]

Davis Estates, Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain 2013

Dark garnet. Awesome nose, loads of dark, heady berry fruits, fine cured tobacco, some chocolatey earth, firm stone, and some Pauillac-style graphite and leather. On the palate, incredibly sweet-succulent dark cherry, meaty currant, fresh blackberry, herbaceous tobacco leaf, spice, and firm stone/graphite, with mineral-laden finish, all underlaid by liqueur notes. Full and dense, with sweet-tart, succulent, fleshy ripe but with incredibly elegant balance, all with a fine, lingering note of toasty oak; long, mineral laden, dense, dark, finish. I love the sweet-tart, crunchy fruit. Wow, I am smitten by this. 10 - 15, maybe 20 strong years ahead. 4.5 Stars [12/27/19]

Pontet-Canet, Pauillac 2005

Great color, dark ruby, pink at the rim. Awesome nose with extraordinary depth; ripe, dense, succulent cassis, blackberry, blueberry, cigar tobacco, herbs, and loads of tarry, mineral-laden earth, all underlaid by Pauillac leather and tobacco, and sweet, aromatic roses lingering. Palate: fleshy, succulent, slightly sweet-tart, black cherry, red currant and cassis, blueberry and blackberry, with firm stone/graphite, cured tobacco with some slightly minty/herbaceous notes, all underlaid with liqueur-like notes, and an extraordinary finish of dark berries, spice, and tar, and tannin that with great, satisfying length. Full bodied, fleshy, with racy acid, loads of spicy tannin still. Very youthful structure still. Will benefit from 5 - 10 more years, and last for 20 - 30. Extraordinary and captivating. 4.5 Stars [12/27/19]

Pontet-Canet, Pauillac 2000

Great color, opaque garnet, some bricking at the rim. Phenomenal nose, endless mineral depth, with entrancing cassis, dried blackberry, gorgeous cured tobacco and roses, with incredibly deep tarry earth, endless aromatic depth, absolutely gorgeous; roses, violets, gorgeous, sweet, aromatic red fruit; mint, licorice, dates, prunes, camphor, fire ember; endless, amazing, one of the very greatest Bordeaux noses I’ve experience. Palate: ridiculous, gorgeous, captivating fresh blackberry, cranberry, currants, orange rind, fresh, succulent tobacco leaf, blueberry liqueur, loads of lovely tarry earth and mineral, long, penetrating, expansive finish of sweet red fruits, spice, mineral, dates; dear lord. Full bodied, dense, and potent, with endless finesse; the acid tone and balance are nearly perfection; that incredible combination of tarry earth, tobacco, and sweet red fruit is just unbelievably captivating; fine mineral lingers endlessly on the finish. Just now approaching maturity, 5 - 10 years will be benefit it, and its balance is such that it can age for decades more; it will be teasing us in 50 years; 30 - 40 years ahead. One of the five greatest bottles of Bordeaux I’ve ever had. 5 Stars, and will improve, it may be perfection when fully mature. [12/27/19]

Lafaurie-Peyraguey, Sauternes 2005

Gorgeous color, medium-golden, with touches of orange, but also a hint of green. Absolutely stunning nose, pears and stone fruits and white flowers and stone, endless depth of nectar and nutmeg and allspice and mineral; incredible; hints of raspberry and raspberry leaf; phenomenal Sauternes nose, like a 1er Cru Puligny, the depth and finesse of stone and flowers is dumbfounding. Palate: stunning, fleshy apricot and plum, raspberry, tropical fruits (kiwi, papaya, pineapple), ripe, candied pear, a touch of candied ginger, with gorgeous nutmeg and allspice, and an ethereal, long finish of mineral, nectar, and subtle spice. Full bodied and intense, supreme elegance and finesse, sweet, fleshy, succulent fruit, phenomenal sweet-tart acid balance; ends with a spicy bitterness that throws everything else into glorious relief. Amazing. 10 - 15 years more to full maturity, 30 - 40 years ahead. 5 Stars [12/27/19]

Ferrari-Carano, Baci NV

“Red wine with natural chocolate flavor.” Medium ruby with a touch of purple. Nose: fig, blackberry, blackberry, with coffee and chocolate. Palate: fresh blackberry jam, cassis, coffee, chocolate, all with spirit and mineral; sweet red fruits linger on the mineral, spice, and tannin-laden finish. Extraordinary achievement for this kind of wine. 3.5 Stars [12/27/19]

If I may say, this was an excellent evening, spent with good people, good food and even better wines. Thank you Dr. Maderak for taking wonderful notes to remember this evening. Till next time, keep popping those corks and I'll meet you out behind the grapevines.

The Wines of December 2019

Happy Holidays - December 2019 Wines

The Holidays have come and gone - hope yours was fun. Time keeps moving faster and faster - can't believe it is already 2020! Here are a few of last months wines.

2017 Prieure Saint Come Chablis, France

Slight burnt bronze yellow on the pour, citrus fruit on the nose; pretty acidic and tarty in the mouth with more citrus fruit, green apple, apricot; very crisp and refreshing; clean, no oak influence so the flavor really powers through.

You can pair this wine with just about anything but seafood would be really ideal; scallops, halibut, oysters, anything along those lines would be amazing.  We enjoyed it on its own, outside on a warm August day, and really enjoyed it.

A nice unoaked Chablis with a nice acidic balance to go with many food choices (lighter style – fish, chicken, etc.). Pleasant as a sipping wine – was a gift but price seems to be around $15 – worth drinking at that price.

2016 Columbia Crest Horse Heaven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington

This bold Cabernet opens with flavors of black cherries and blackberries with a touch of currants and vanilla, complemented by earth and mineral notes. Deep berry flavors lead to a soft tannin cocoa finish.

Food Pairings: Pasta Bolognese, Braised Lamb Shank, Beef Pot Roast, Strongly Flavored Cheeses

Critical Acclaim  WS90Wine Spectator

Supple and approachable, with lively black cherry and spiced herb flavors that linger on the finish. Drink now through 2022.

Was an email special at $11 – well worth the $$. Had some tannin in the backbone, so a couple years in bottle won’t hurt it. Drinking nicely now, good black fruits and a nice balance. Good with beef and red sauces. Buy some – it is a nice wine.

2016 Il Bruciato Tenuita Guadi Al Tasso, Bolgheri, Italy

The 2016 Bruciato offers an intense ruby red color. On the nose, the aromas of ripe red berry fruit, sweet spices, and a light and fresh minty note are the most prominent sensations. The palate is well structured, persistent, and very pleasurable in its fruity finish and aftertaste.

Blend: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 15% Syrah

Critical Acclaim

JS94       James Suckling

This second wine shows such a great balance of round tannins and juicy, creamy and chocolate character. Full, flavorful and joyful. Salty and juicy. Savory and even meaty. Drink now or hold.

RP93      Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

This is absolutely one of the best value wines you will find in Italy and I suspect beyond. The 2016 Bolgheri Rosso Il Bruciato is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 15% Syrah. This vintage comes together with seamless intensity and smoothness. You get so much dark fruit flavor, paired with soft tannins, spice, smoke and dried blackberry. Il Bruciato pulls off its magic effortlessly. It doesn't try to be anything other than it is: Delicious. Rating:93+

WS90     Wine Spectator

Cherry jam, blackberry and floral aromas and flavors prevail in this fruity red. Well-structured and balanced, if showing a youthful exuberance. Fine length. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. Best from 2020 through 2028.

This was surprise wine I found at clearance for $20. Regular retail is only $27, but felt like a bargain. A super Tuscan from Antinori in my price range – very nice wine. Had the legs to hold for several years, but is drinking nicely now.  Mostly flavors of dark fruit with hints of chocolate, minerals and hints of earthiness. Moderate finish, a real meaty type wine. Worth the price – grab a bottle or two and hang on to one for a while.

2007 Hafner Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Ca

This red wine was produced by fermenting the juice with the skins to extract their color and flavor. CO2  gas (a by-product of fermentation) bubbled up through the skins causing them to float to the top and form the “cap”. To extract the grapes’ color and flavor, we pumped juice from the bottom of the tank and sprinkled it over the cap throughout fermentation.

Following the Bordeaux tradition of extended maceration, the wine stayed on the skins for another two weeks to soften the young tannins. We then moved the Cabernet into our caves where it was aged in French (80%) and American (20%) oak barrels. During its first Winter, the wine underwent malolactic fermentation which lowered its acidity and added richness. In its second year, this Cabernet was aged in both oak barrels and tanks. After many blending trials, we added 2% Petit Verdot and 5% Malbec to this Cabernet to increase the wine’s depth and richness. It was bottled in August 2009.

At our Annual Vertical Tasting in January 2019, we tasted the 2007 and here are our notes: Lovely. Sweet berries, plums, black cherries, carpaccio and cassis aromas. Soft on the palate with a bright fruit middle. Niçoise olives, bittersweet chocolate, rose petals and sweet vanilla notes add richness and depth.

This was a gift from my brothers cellar – only problem was the cork crumbled while I tried to pull it. Even the Ah-So couldn’t save it so part of the cork went a-swimming. I strained it to drink and the wine is drinking very well. The fruit has held up well, the finish was moderate – most of the tannins have completely mellowed. This small Sonoma winery makes a good product and this is an excellent example of how well their cabernet stands up.

2016 Verdicchio de Castelli de Jesi, Marche, Italy

Bright straw. Lime and green apple on the nose. Then sneaky concentration to the pomaceous orchard fruit and almond flavors. The finish is long, bright and juicy. Lovely entry-level Verdicchio wine. Drinking window: 2018 - 2021."

A nice dry, medium body wine to have with a roasted turkey breast. Price was around $12, served the purpose well. Not overpowering, but nicely fruited with a good acidic balance. For when you need a nice inexpensive white that isn’t Chardonnay.

2017 Vina Cobos Felino Malbec, Mendoza Argentina

Violet red with black tones. An attractive nose with aromas of fresh black fruits and prunes. The palate displays good concentration, balance and sweet yet supple tannins.

Critical Acclaim

JS93       James Suckling

A vivid and linear wine with blackberry and blueberry character. Granite. Medium body, fine tannins and a fresh finish.

RP90      Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

I also tasted the just-bottled 2017 Felino Malbec, of which a whopping 651,000 bottles have been produced. They increased the percentage of French oak and reduced the use of American oak a bit, and the wood seems better integrated, neatly folded into the fruit. It felt a little closed (it was just bottled), and I sensed the difference between the cooler 2016 and the riper 2017, but the wine didn't show any excess and felt very balanced and harmonious. At the same time, they are also changing the image, with a cleaner, easier to read label that also reflects the character of the wine. It has very fine tannins and a great mouthfeel. Amazing quality for the volume. It slowly opened up in the glass and didn't stop to grow. Rating: 90+

A South American wine from Paul Hobbs – I noted it had some tannins, bright red fruits and some spices; a nice lasting finish. A really balanced bottle with great fruit showing in the mouth, without being a fruit bomb.  Very enjoyable wine, retail is around $20, well worth the price.

Well, it's been fun, hope you enjoyed these wines. I've got some more items to post, but seem to be slow getting around. Meanwhile, keep popping those corks and I'll meet you out behind the grapevines.