December Wines

Getting ready for Winter

2016 La-Mal-Dita Garnacha, Rioja, Spain

When you think of La Rioja, Grenache (known in Spain as Garnacha) probably doesn’t come to mind. After all, this is the land of powerful and oaky Tempranillo. Grenache in these parts is largely relegated to the status of mere role player. When blended in, it rarely exceeds more than 20%, but even in small percentages, Grenache gives the final wine a gentle fruitiness to soften the palate.

But finding a Rioja wine that is 100% Grenache requires some digging. There might be a good reason for that.

Grenache has a thin skin and it produces very low yields. According to the wine label, these attributes have earned the grape an unfortunate nickname in La Rioja: la maldita, or “the little cursed one.”

Somehow, I feel this may have more to do with economics than the fickleness of the plant. Using large tracts of land to grow low-yielding Grenache (instead of the area’s star  grape, Tempranillo), probably makes less sense in La Rioja than other places where the grape is vital. After all, Grenache continues to be one of the most widely planted red wine grapes on earth — they don’t call it names in Priorat or Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

La Maldita was dialed in exactly right. The notes of cooked strawberry and crushed leaves found a nice companion in a mellow but effective amount of acidity.

In simpler terms: it was super drinkable. Glug, glug, glug. For $8, you get a wine you can drink any night of the week, plus — in America at least — a label that accurately reflects your emotions of having to put up with 12 more days of this freaking election.

A great little bottle of wine for under $10 – I’ve found many Garnachas from Spain that I like, one from Rioja is a bit rare. The strawberry was pronounced in the flavor, heck of a buy…

1999 Senhora do Convento Port, Oporto, Portugal

90 Points Wine Enthusiast

Concentrated fruit and spice embrace the tannins in this impressively ripe, full wine. It's not from a major Port vintage, but it shows good structure and mature red fruits. It's ready to drink now and very enjoyable.

Designation Vintage

Variety Port, Port Blend

Appellation Port, Portugal

Winery Senhora do Convento

This is a close out I got for $20 – a vintage port. The cork was a bitch, it crumbled while pulling, but the wine is quality stuff. Reddish tint, the flavor is broad, with a nice finish. Well worth the price…

2013 Hafner Next Red, Alexander Valley, California

In 1997, we planted three acres of Malbec and Petit Verdot to blend with our Cabernet Sauvignon wine. Having enjoyed Malbec wines from the Cahors region of France, we decided to create a Malbec based wine and named it Next Red. This is our tenth vintage.

After many tastings in the Spring of 2015, we blended 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Petit Verdot with 84% Malbec. We continued to barrel-age the wine until it was bottled in August 2015.

Young and fruit-forward, the 2013 Next Red opens with notes of cola spice, licorice and forest floor. The liveliness and spice from the Malbec is complemented by the elegant complexity of the Cabernet and the Petit Verdot. Bright and complex on the palate, it has notes of dark chocolate, carpaccio, violets and toasted bread that add richness and length to the wine. Like its predecessors, the 2013 has the balance and complexity to age well for at least an additional fifteen years.

This is a smaller family vineyard in Sonoma that my brother buys from. This was a gift – not a bad little wine but the Malbec was a bit subdued. Moderate finish, decent balance but not great. Good, but…When you’re growing grapes in California, I wouldn’t make a wine like Cahors.

NV Mandard Touraine Brut, France

Tasting : Touraine presents a fine foam and a beautiful cord. Pale yellow color, this wine offers a fruity (quince, honey) and a smooth and harmonious mouth. This wine is to consume within two years after the purchase.

Drinking temperature : 8 ° C.

Food/wine: this wine is ideal for an aperitif at a reasonable price, it can also be served to the why not on a meal for those who love and wine of honor (communions, weddings, municipalities...) fine bubbles.

 This wine is made primarily from the somewhat obscure grape Arbois. A light, crisp and refreshing sparkler that will work well with anything as an aperitif to popping a bottle because the day ends in “Y”!

A very refreshing sparkling wine, imported by Roche-Mere. The obscure grape makes it unique, but the flavors are very familiar and welcome. Nice buy around $20.

2014 Three Wine Company Old Vines Field Blend, Contra Costa, CA

Our  Old Vines Field Blend is sourced from ancient vineyards in Contra Costa County, and include Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Mataro (Mourvèdre), Carignane, and Alicante Bouschet. All the grapes in this blend come from vineyard blocks with extremely sandy soils called Delhi Sandy Loam.

This Old Vines Field Blend is luscious combination of ancient-vine Carignane (44%), Zinfandel (17%) Petite Sirah (14%), Mataro (19%),  Alicante Bouschet (4%), and Black Malvoisie (2%). Each of these varietals contribute to the deep purple/black color and piercing, high-toned aromas of boysenberry violets and dark plum. Massive on the attack, showing off all of its 100+ year-old-vine pedigree. Packed with crushed black fruits and black cherry liquer, the finish remains firm and vibrant. Drink now (hard not to), or lay down for up to a decade. As with all these ancient-vine reds, oxygen is its friends.

Very good fruity aroma with good berry mouthfeel – moderate finish. A great example of “field blends” – wine has good balance to be a sipper or go with nice hardy meals. Under $20 – good buy!

2014 Three Wine Company Mazzoni “Live Oak” Zinfandel, Contra Costa, CA

The Live Oak was planted in 1885 by Italian immigrants; it produces a mere 2.35 tons per acre. The Live Oak vineyard is made up of predominately Zinfandel vines (81%) but is a field blend with Petite Sirah (11%), Carignane (6%), Alicante Bouschet (1%), and Mataro (1%).

The wine is dark black and blue color to the edge, with boysenberry, violets, supple tannins and perfect acidity. The wine shows staggering ancient vine concentration with a briary density and silken chewiness with a velour-like texture which is classic Live Oak.

92 Points Wine Enthusiast

Harvested late but not sweet, this decadently rich and fruity wine pairs well with cheese or an equally opulent dish such as osso bucco or red wine risotto. It has grapey, jammy aromas and late-picked flavors like fig, plum and black raisin that glide along the palate. The alcohol is high, tempered by a velvety texture and moderate tannins.

A very likable Zinfandel from Winemaker Matt Cline; rich with a bit of heat to it (the alcohol) but an overall outstanding effort to blend into a great texture, flavor profile. Tannins are there but muted; drink now or cellar for a few years – this Zin can handle it. Cost is around $30.

2014 Three Winery Company “Bigelow” Zinfandel, Contra Costa, CA

93 Points              Editors’ Choice Wine Enthusiast

Big, powerful and confidently ripe, this full-bodied wine oozes with luscious blackberry, wild sage and blueberry flavors that seemingly melt in the mouth. A great example of the late harvest style without being sweet, it's dry, concentrated and persistent on the finish.

Marcus James Bigelow was a gentleman farmer and hoedown fiddler who enjoyed playing cards with friends more than farming. While he moved and worked slowly, he was reported to have been a very fast driver. Originally planted in the mid 1880's, his vineyard on Neroly Road in Oakley is still producing a minuscule quantity of small berry Mataro, Carignane, and Zinfandel. This 130 year-old vineyard is dry-farmed and grown in Delhi Sand series loam soil, which is similar to beach sand. These vines produce a mere 1.5 to 2.5 tons of fruit per acre and are some of the first grapes to arrive into the winery.

This Bigelow Zinfandel is made up of predominately Zinfandel (77%) and is blend with Petite Sirah (14%), Alicante Bouschet (1%), Carignane (6%), and Mataro (2%). The wine is dark black and blue color to the edge, with boysenberry, violets, supple tannins, and perfect acidity. The wine shows staggering ancient vine concentration with a briary density, and silken chewiness with a velour-like texture which is classic Bigelow.

A really big, broad shouldered Zinfandel, this wine has outstanding fruit and herb flavors that meld into a wonderful experience. This wine needs serious food, no back-yard sipper here. This wine compares well to other high end zinfandels and the cost is around $30-35. Buy one and try it, it is really something!

2014 Three Winery Company Petite Sirah, Contra Costa, CA

92 Points              Cellar Selection                 Wine Enthusiast

This is a classy, dry and firmly structured wine from the warm climate and sandy soils of Contra Costa County. It has an extremely dark color, tight aromas of just-ripe fruit and black pepper, and focused, concentrated flavors of black berry and cherry. Balanced and full yet not overpowering in body, it is a great candidate for further aging. Best after 2022.

Our Petite Sirah vineyard has vine rows running east to west with a high of about 20’ elevation on the east side to about sea level on the west end. Due to the soil type and moderate growing conditions, the vineyard produces low yielding small berry clusters with intense color, structure and fruit flavors. Explosive aromas of blueberry preserves and sweet herbs and packed with blueberry flavors and firm tannins, accentuate this ultra-concentrated Petite Sirah. Drink now for its primary fruit plushness or age 5 to 7 years to help soften the tannins.

I love a well made Petite Sirah and this is one. Intense and deep, brooding color and concentrated flavors that linger on the finish. Balanced, not overpowering but has some tannins to allow for aging. Best part – this retails at $25, can be found for as low as $20. Awesome wine – Matt Cline the winemaker was here and he said he loved being able to use the old vines to make this wine.

So, until we meet again, Keep popping those corks and I’ll meet you out behind the grapevines. Oh, Happy New Year and many more.

Double Shot - I never got November loaded, so here they are

2015 Vina Estampa Reserva  Cabernet Sauvignon/Petite Verdot, Colchagua Valley, Chile

"Powerful, structured and full of rich dark fruit flavors, dominated by plum pudding, blackberry and roasted cherry."  Wine Spectator: 91 Points

Not a lot of press on this wine, but it was a very tasty buy. Nicely balanced with good fruit flavor, a nice blend. Under $15, well worth the money.

2014 Domaine LaFage Cuvee Nicolas Grenache Noir, Catalanes, France

Wine Advocate – 90-92 points -Aged in 25% demi-muids, the 2014 Cotes Catalanes Nicolas comes all from the rolling hills and gravel soils in the Aspres region and is made from 100% Grenache. What should represent an incredible value, it boasts fabulous notes of black raspberry, licorice and crushed violets to go with medium+-bodied richness, fine tannin and a supple, pretty profile on the palate. This is far from an over-the-top fruit bomb and it has real class and elegance. Buy it by the case and drink it over the coming 2-3 years.

This was an awesome wine at around $10. Good balance, acidity to pair with foods and excellent fruit flavors. Worth buying a bunch, it won’t bore you.

2013 Chateau D’Arcole Grand Cru, Saint-Emilion, France

The following wines from France are imported by a Wichita company – Roche-Mere. The wines are very good.

Arcole Castle is deep purple in color. The nose is characterized by intense aromas of red fruits (blackcurrant, blackberry), and warm toasted bread and vanilla notes. The palate is rich and elegant with silky tannins. It can be appreciated for its fruit when young, but its robust structure will allow it to age in the cellar for several years.

The property is certified organic and now is biodynamic certified (since 2012).

A very interesting wine – Bordeaux all the way with a 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon blend. A little young, has nice aging potential. Lots of red and black fruits and moderate tannins. Went well with the meal – a little pricey at around $40, but comparable to much higher priced wines from the same area.

2014 Domaine de L’Arnesque Cotes du Rhone, France

Grape varieties 70% Grenache, 30% Syrah

Average age of vineyard                               20 years

Wine making      21 days traditional vinification with total destemmed grapes and several “delestages” (rack and return)

Ageing  1 year in raw concrete

Decanter Magazine 87 points

Delicate aromas of ripe strawberries, raspberries and redcurrants flow across the light, fragrant palate where they are sprinkled with the merest hint of nutmeg. Well-made and very drinkable with a long, dry finish.

This was a very good CDR – nose started a little closed but the flavors were bright fruit with herbs and pepper on a moderate finish. This was excellent with our meal, a stuffed pork chop. Retails for about $20, a real good buy.

2015 Justin Girardin Bourgogne, Burgundy, France

White Wine by Justin Girardin from Burgundy, France. An expansive, complex bouquet evokes fresh pear, white peach and honey, with a hint of iodine in the background. Dry and stony on the palate, offering intense citrus and orchard fruit flavors and a touch of anise. Closes with building smokiness, a touch of bitter pear skin and very good persistence.

This wine sees about 20% in new oak and the remainder in steel. Adds a nice complexity to a very dry white with subtle fruit flavors. Very drinkable and went with an excellent salad. Price is $20-25; a very good price for a white Burgundy of this quality.

2014 Domain Gaget Chateau du Py Morgon, France

90 Points Wine Enthusiast

This ripe and smooth wood-aged cru wine from small parcels on the south slope of 1,174-foot Côte du Py is now very approachable. It has generous tannins that are mature and with fine acidity and black-cherry fruits. The wine, concentrated and rich, is ready to drink.

Very pleasant sipper, great fruit nose – a little lighter than the other wines offered, but a real palate pleaser, Gamay is not given the due it should. Wine is priced around $25 and worth the 90 points awarded by the magazine.

2015 Chateau de Montmirail Cuvee de Duex Freres, Vacqueyras, France

This Vacqueyras is a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre bottled unfiltered. It's classic southern Rhône. It's leathery and gamy, with voluptuous berry fruit and white pepper. The palate is fresh, with crunchy fruit and ripe, well-integrated tannins.

This was a crowd pleaser – decent nose of red fruits followed by a complex mouthfeel of red fruits, spices and some leather. A nice long finish with integrated tannins. Priced right at $25 – 29, you will really like this wine.

Our Reserve Chardonnay is made following techniques I learned during my internship at Domaine des Comtes Lafon in Meursault, France. We begin in the vineyard by using a Burgundian-bred Chardonnay clone (Dijon 76) for our grapes. At the winery, we inoculated the juice with two Burgundian yeasts (Montrachet and CY 3079), then barrel-fermented the juice in new and one-year-old French oak barrels to give the wine a roasted nuts aroma and a richness on the palate. After primary fermentation, we moved half of this wine and its lees (yeast sediment) to older French oak barrels to allow the wine to develop and mature without becoming too oaky. Like at Lafon, all of the wine underwent malolactic fermentation. This traditional Burgundian technique converted the grapes’ natural malic acid to the softer lactic acid, adding richness and complexity to the palate.

The 2014 Reserve Chardonnay is fruit-focused and youthful with aromas of grapefruit blossoms, candied lemon peel and ripe pears. Lively, fresh on the entry, it has a rich mid-palate with notes of sweet cream; the toasty vanilla flavors from barrel-fermentation and extended barrel-aging enhance its bouquet. Lovely now, the 2014 Reserve has the structure and excellent balance to allow it to age for at least three more years.

A Thanksgiving wine gift from by my brother, this wine is more California than the White Burgundy above. That being said, it was a very nice white, with the nice dry edge and bright tropical fruits showing. Moderate aftertaste, a nice wine. Only available from the winery,a small Sonoma family operation that has been there since 1967. Priced at around $30.

Hope you enjoyed the wines, the Holidays are around the corner. Keep popping those corks and I’ll meet you out behind the grapevines.