Tuesday, September 5, 2017

Wines of August

Where has the month gone?


2009 Bodegas Alejandro Fernández El Vínculo La Mancha, Spain


Tasting Notes
In the 2009 El Vínculo (the name means the tie or the bond in Spanish) Alejandro Fernández demonstrates La Mancha’s ability to make world class wine. The recently released 2009 El Vínculo exudes an infectious charm in its beautiful aromatic profile and plush flavors. For starters, deep blackberry and currant scents mingle with hints of sandalwood and Asian spices to delight the nose and prepare the palate for the wine’s soft succulent flavors that roll across the tongue and fill the mouth. Happily, this old vine Tempranillo combines tremendous flavor with subtle complexity, as El Vínculo’s velvety texture is backed by fine grained tannins, which add lift and allow the wine to exit with a graceful flourish.
Rated 90 by Stephen Tanzer
Opaque ruby. Smoky, oak-accented dark berry and cherry aromas are brightened by a peppery nuance and a hint of clove. Sappy, sweet and expansive, offering intense cherry-vanilla and blackberry preserve flavors and a touch of mocha. Supple tannins give shape to the finish, where the spice and cherry notes echo strongly. This wine was raised entirely in American oak; I'll bet on it being even better after the lumber has had time to mesh with the fruit.
Despite its bargain price ($10), this is one hefty wine. The tannins are still evident but the fruit does show up, after a little time in the glass. Best if decanted, great with grilled and BBQ meats. Buy a couple bottles- would be great with roasts and stews.

2015 GENTIL "HUGEL" Alsace, France

The perfect introduction to Alsace wines as it combines the qualities of all our white varietals.
This wine revives an ancient Alsace tradition that wines assembled from noble grape varieties were called "Gentil". Gentil "Hugel" allies the suave, spicy flavour of Gewurztraminer, the body of Pinot Gris, the finesse of Riesling, the grapiness of Muscat and the refreshing character of Pinot Blanc and Sylvaner. This wine has a wonderfully intense and lively colour with a nice crystalline metallic sheen over a young, fresh and alert pale green with hints of pale yellow. When rolled in the glass its legs are structured and oily.
It has a magnificent pure and sophisticated aroma which generously releases a sense of freshness, openness and perfumed, expressive, fruity and floral spontaneity with delicate hints of muscat, white peach, lemon balm, rose, hawthorn, jasmine, freesia, lime-tree and cherry blossom, lychee and pear.
One is immediately impressed by its rare elegance and aromatic charm.
On the palate it reveals all of its harmony and balance.
This is a fresh and refreshing dry wine, with a wonderful heady and rounded generosity that is combined with a remarkable sapidity, it has a full and delicious flavour that is filled with charm and sophistication.
This wine is under $15 and a great summer wine. The flavors are vibrant and well balanced. The wine has acidity and charm to go with many foods – chicken, fish and other lighter fare. I used to drink a lot of Alsatian wines years ago – Trimbach, Pierre Sparr and Hugel. I had forgotten how enjoyable they were. Great way to try them without breaking the bank.

2009 Tenuta Vitanza Volare Toscano Rosso Montalcino, Italy

Appellation: IGT Toscana.
Varietal: 80% Sangiovese Grapes 20% Merlot Cabernet Grapes. Vineyard’s age: 12 Years.
Wine-making: Pre-soaking at a cold temperature for three days; pump-overs following the density and the temperature under computer control.
Aging: 4 Months in still tanks and 4 Months in Slavonia Oak. Bottle refinement:  4 Months.
Production: 10000 Bottles. Organoleptic Characteristics: Color red ruby.
Perfume: Bouquet intense and complete
Taste: Full body, smooth and powerful with fresh fruit taste.
OK, this was a $5 bottle I picked up on close out. Not awful, just not really memorable. Drinkable, not bad with spaghetti or pizza. Bottle for your “not close” friends that put ice cubes in their wine.

2015 Domaine Dupreable Pere & Fils Gamay, Beaujolais, France

Rated 90 by Decanter
Vivid ruby-red. Powerful dark berry, cherry and violet scents are lifted by a smoky mineral nuance and a hint of cracked pepper. Concentrated and juicy on the palate, offering bitter cherry and cassis flavors and a touch of candied licorice. Much more serious and powerful than its appellation would suggest, delivering strong closing thrust and lingering dark berry and mineral notes. There’s no way I’d have guessed that this was a straight Beaujolais. (Vinous)
From Kermit Lynch, the famous West Coast importer/retailer, this was around $10 – an excellent price for a nice bottle of vino. Probably not something to keep in the cellar, but very juicy and vibrant for many types of meals or just for porch sipping. Tastes good with a little chill – the review nailed it.

2013 Mastroberardino “Redi More” Aglianico, Irpinia, Campania, Italy

Rated 91 by Robert Parker
The 2013 Irpinia Aglianico RediMore represents a special selection of Aglianico biotypes from pre-phylloxera vines that are up to 140 years old. Two of these clones were registered as Antonio Mastroberardino VCR 418 and VCR 421 in honor of the late proprietor of this historic Campania winery. The research project to identify these clones started in 2008 and the first edition of RediMore was produced in 2012. The 2013 vintage presented this year is a very special expression of Aglianico with an extremely floral character. The bouquet shows pressed rose, spice, dried violets and moist chewing tobacco. The wine is engineered for near-term consumption (with softer tannins) although this vintage should continue to evolve over the next five years.
This is more of a splurge over the $5 Rosso – although this is the “entry” level wine for this producer. It will cost you around $25, but it is a real stand up wine with good backbone for some aging and very good fruit flavors. Worth the money, serve to your friends, especially those you like.

Well, I gotta fly - so keep popping those corks and I'll meet you out behind the grapevines...