A Review of 4 different 2005 Bordeaux wines
Wonderful tasting at Stockemeyer's farm courtesy of Chris "Anton" Kowalski
A white Bordeaux as a gathering wine
Clos Des Lunes Lune
D'Argent Bordeaux 2015
"The 2015 Lune d'Argent is a blend of one-third
Semillon and two-thirds Sauvignon Blanc that had been bottled in March 2016. It
was cropped at 25 hectoliters per hectare. It has quite a forward, rich,
generous bouquet with subtle honeysuckle and apricot notes merging with the
apply aromas. The palate is fresh and crisp on the entry, a little grassiness
at first, gently opening up to a gooseberry, nettle and green apple-flavored
finish. This might be my pick of Olivier Bernard's three 2015 offerings under
the Clos des Lunes label and it comes highly recommended." -Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com #224, Apr 2016
Reviewed by: The Wine Advocate -
90 pts
This was a very nice
White from France. Nice nose of honeysuckle – bright fresh flavors of some
citrus, a touch of grass, apricots and green apple. Good clean finish.
Now the wonderful four from 2005
Chateau Leoville Poyferre 2005
Bordeaux Red Blends from St. Julien, Bordeaux, France
Winemaker's Notes Elegant,
refined, complex and well-balanced wine. Intense color and velvety texture.
They are excellent keeping wines.
W&S95
Wine & Spirits - "This wine's heady rush of flavor
gave one taster goosebumps. She called it sexy. "Formidable." Other
technical descriptions included "the shazam," "has zazz,"
and "unprintable. That's some serious s#¡†." At the en primeur
tastings, this appeared to be chunky and superripe. Now it's massive, with dark
extract and exotic spice, a sophisticated wine that ends on sweetness, bitter
chocolate and dark berry fruit. With all the flash, it will give a lot of
pleasure as a young wine, but it has the plump Poyferré terroir drive to
sustain that pleasure for years to come."
WE94
Wine Enthusiast - "Hugely concentrated and packed with
tannins, this wine shows considerable amounts of dark, extracted fruit. It wins
out on impressive power, driving the fruit through the tannins, giving great
richness."
The color is still
dark and deep, moderate nose of dark fruits.
Broad red and black fruit; some bramble and dried fig. Fairly long finish with a little tannin. Very nice.
Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte 2005
Winemaker's Notes
Château Smith Haut Lafitte's great terroir of deep Gunzian
gravel, with old vines sinking several metres into the soil, produced
stupendous results: the wines have a concentration, texture, and class never
before seen.
Blend: 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet
franc, 1% Petit Verdot.
RP95
The Wine Advocate - "One can’t say enough about the
accomplishments the Cathiards have achieved at this property since 1990. Prior
to their purchase of the property, appallingly diluted, vegetal, fruitless, charmless
wines were produced, but they have turned Smith-Haut-Lafitte into a showcase
Pessac-Leognan. The inky/blue/purple-tinged 2005's extraordinary nose reeks of
charcoal, incense, scorched earth, abundant blackberry, blueberry, and cherry
fruit, toast, and spice. Good acidity, huge but sweet tannin, and fabulous
precision as well as definition characterize this full-bodied,
super-concentrated effort. It should prove to be among the longest-lived wines
yet made by the Cathiards. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030+."
W&S94
Wine & Spirits - "The Cathiards have invested
heavily in this property since they purchased it in the early 1990s. It is one
of the great terroirs of the Graves, a raised plateau of gravel where the vines
produce a rich and powerful wine. That power is amplified in a vintage like
2005 into a huge, cassis-driven red with the velvet feel of a favorite
childhood pillow. The Cathiards do not spare the new oak, a character that
dominates this young wine, while the fruit underneath feels healthy and clean,
vibrating with tension, set for a long life ahead."
The estate
originates in the 14th century with the house of Verrier Du Boscq who planted
vines on a gravelly plateau named Lafitte already in 1365. In 1720 it
was bought by the Scotsman Georges Smith who added his name to the lieu-dit (English: place-name), and who
built the manor house of the property.
The Louis
Eschenauer company bought estate in 1958, after having already distributed the
wine from the early 20th century. In 1990, Daniel Cathiard bought Smith Haut
Lafitte and embarked on an investment programme, including the building of a
new cellar.
Big nose of red fruit,
cassis and gunpowder. Mouth feel has a
good acid balance with some tannin still remaining; black cherry, black currant
power to a chunky finish – compared to the St Julien wine.
Chateau Clerc Milon 2005
Bordeaux Red Blends from Pauillac, Bordeaux, France
11 Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2008
The wine has a deep color with a violet tint.The nose opens
on pleasant smoky notes, followed by intense and powerful ripe berry fruit
aromas, especially cassis and wild strawberry. Full-bodied and expansive on the
palate, it displays close-knit tannins and a range of generous, varied flavors
including blackberry, cherry, spice and licorice. The ample and well-balanced
finish combines the solidity of a well-defined structure with the charm and
fullness of rich flavours enfolded in refined and judicious oak.
WS95
Wine Spectator - "Offers fabulous aromas of currant,
tar, lead pencil and mineral. Full-bodied, with supersoft tannins that caress
the palate. Beautiful and impressive. A fabulous wine. The best Clerc in a very
long time. Best after 2014. 10,000 cases made."
W&S93
Wine & Spirits - "On a 107-acre site between Mouton
and Lafite, Clerc Milon is part of G.F.A. Baronne Philippine de Rothschild, a
group of properties including Mouton and managed by the same team. In 2005, the
team produced a great performance from this vineyard, a clean, pure wine with
delicacy and energy rather than tannic overload. Not that it isn't laden with
tannins, but the bright, wild cherry fruit flavor is a formidable partner,
lasting for minutes through a buoyant finish. A supple, lovely wine that will
go the distance with some of its more powerful neighbors."
Château Clerc Milon is a property in the Pauillac appellation
of the Bordeaux region of France. The wine produced
here was classified as one of eighteen Cinquièmes Crus (Fifth Growths)
in the Bordeaux
Wine Official Classification of 1855.[1]
Château
Clerc Milon is located in the northern part of the Pauillac
appellation, with its winery building in the village of Mousset.
Clerc Milon is surrounded by two first growth including Château
Mouton Rothschild.
The name of the
estate is derived from its former owner Jean-Baptiste Clerc, who owned it at
the time of the 1855 classification, and the village of Milon. Once Jacques
Mondon had come into possession of some vineyards that had previously been part
of the Clerc-Milon estate, and after Clerc's death in 1863, he mounted a
successful legal challenge to be allowed to use the Clerc-Milon name for his
vineyards, which became the origin of the current-day Château Clerc Milon.
Mondon subsequently adopted the name Clerc-Milon-Mondon for his estate.
In 1970, Château
Clerc-Milon-Mondon was purchased by Baron Philippe de
Rothschild, the owner of Château Mouton
Rothschild. At this time, the property was in poor shape and
consisted of 16.5 hectares (41 acres) of vineyards. Rothschild removed the
Mondon part of the name, and subsequently expanded the estate by purchasing additional
vineyards that had previously been part of Clerc Milon.
Château Clerc
Milon's label is illustrated by a pair of dancers made of precious stones which
is displayed in the Museum of Wine in Art at Château Mouton
Rothschild. This decorative work belonged to Catherine II, the Empress of
Russia and is inspired by characters of the Commedia dell'Arte. Baroness Philippine de Rothschild chose it as
the Clerc Milon emblem because of her love of the theatre.
Lighter nose – little lighter
in color than previous ones. Smooth flavors of red berries, currants with less
tannins and a modest aftertaste. Silky,
but less of a wine than the others.
Chateau Rauzan-Segla 2005
Bordeaux Red Blends from Margaux, Bordeaux, France
An elegant fragrant bouquet, lots of taste on the palate, a
well-balanced structure and very great elegance. For this vintage we took our
time and were able to be even more meticulous than usual really taking
advantage of the sorting tables and competence of the people we have trained.
WS97
Wine Spectator - "Very beautiful aromas of crushed
berry, flowers, currant and Indian spices follow through to a full body, with
ultrafine tannins and a long, long finish. Extremely polished and beautiful,
with a seamless texture. Best after 2014."
WE96
Wine Enthusiast - "A wine with a beautiful mouthfeel
and shape. This is rich, gleaming in the ripe black fruits, the touch of spice
and mint, as well as the sweet blackberry flavors. The acidity is balanced,
showing off the fruit. There is weight and density as well. "
Château Rauzan-Ségla, or
Château Rausan-Ségla, is a winery in the Margaux appellation
of the Bordeaux region of France. Château Rauzan-Ségla is also the name
of the red wine produced by this property. The wine
produced here was classified as one of fifteen Deuxièmes Crus (Second
Growths) in the original Bordeaux
Wine Official Classification of 1855. The alternate name
"Rausan-Ségla" was also frequently used until 1994 when the original
"Rauzan-Ségla" again became the official name.
Rauzan-Ségla
was once part of the vast Rausan estate owned by Pierre de Mesures de Rauzan in the mid-17th
century. Over time, this estate was divided, and by the time of the 1855
Classification, had been separated into the estates of Château
Rauzan-Gassies, Château Rauzan-Ségla, Château Desmirail,
and Château Marquis de
Terme.
After a long
ownership by the Durand-Dasier family, the estate was acquired by Frédéric
Cruse of the Cruse family in 1903 who held ownership until 1957, and until 1989
it belonged to Liverpool shipping magnate John Holt. By 1982 the estate had
hired the consultant services of Émile Peynaud, and in 1989 the property was
purchased by Brent Walker. In 1994 he sold the estate on to the Wertheimer
family of Chanel, who installed a winemaking team led by David Orr and John
Kolasa (both from Chateau Latour). Chanel remain the current owners, and they
are credited with continuing to push the quality ever higher. In 2014, Nicolas
Audebert, the former winemaker at Cheval des Andes, the LVMH property in
Mendoza Argentina, was hired to replace John Kolasa.
Nice nose of red and black fruits.
Flavor powered by blackberry, black cherry and nuances of spice- cardamom or curry
like. Nice length of finish with some tannins remaining. Heavier weight than
previous wines – very nice.
The wines were ranked by the attendees
in this order:
1. 2005 Chateau
Rauzan-Segla Margaux
2. 2005
Chateau Clerc-Milon Pauillac
3. 2005
Chateau Leoville Poyferre Saint Julien
4. 2005 Chateau Smith-Haut Lafitte Graves
All were formidable wines drinking in excellent shape for 11 years
of age. Should have then again in a another 5 years or so. Hope you enjoyed – I’ve included my
presentation of the wines as well as my notes.
Till later, keep popping those
corks and I’ll meet you out behind the grape vines.